just a tip, do a search of the forums, there is heaps of info both here and the old site. It only takes a few seconds...![]()
Hi
I seen there been many posts around talking about electric ignition for 18-rg.
I have a old and simple 18R (from 1973), im tired of constantly having to mess with the breakers inside my rotor housing.
is there a very simple way i can get a good and dependand electric egnintion into my car? will it fit from almost all R series engine? and do i also need more components housing, like relays,ecus etc?
tips on any cars that have a good dependable ignition i can use will be very helpfull
Thanks in advance for help, tips some guidance for what i need to do
![]()
just a tip, do a search of the forums, there is heaps of info both here and the old site. It only takes a few seconds...![]()
3 x RA23's + 2 x RA28's = No Backyard!!![]()
18r-g + straight lpg + t25 turbo + 14 psi = FUN!
The latest Toy : http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=807137
I did it using a Jaycar HEI kit.
It still uses the points, but because of the low current running through the contact it never wears out.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
Hi again'
Thanks for ur answers
i have read a lot of posts about this on this forum, but there is still some things i dont understand.
i have a 20r pointess dizzi on my hands, other than switihing the stuff from the 20r dizzi and into my old dizzy, what do i need to do? do i need new coils, or other electronical components to make it work?
thanks again for your help
Try this link, it is the most recent thread on the subject
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9946
also...
Re: Toyota's Interchangable Oddities.... (TIO#)
pretty sure this hasn't been posted.
21R distributor electronic internals bolt inside the 18R (some 18RG) distributors with no modifications.
This is excellent if you need a method for triggering an aftermarket computer.
see attached photos. or see here for more larger photos,
http://www.users.on.net/~csharman/
The points carrier just unbolts out of the 18r dizzy and the VR sensor carrier bolts in. The top half of the dizzy shaft is completely swapped with the top half from the 21r (little screw down the middle) The vr sensor wiring even fits nicely out a slot in the dizzy body.
Cheers
Chris
Attached Images18rinside.jpg (17.7 KB, 10 views)
18relectronic2.jpg (11.3 KB, 12 views)
__________________
RA40 Celica 18r-ge
Megasquirted and sparked
Last edited by chris_rg : 28-12-2005 at 12:22 PM.
#148
Re: Toyota's Interchangable Oddities.... (TIO#)
chris_rg:
would this require a remapping of the distributor for the 18 r after you have put the 21 r internals in it?
#149
Re: Toyota's Interchangable Oddities.... (TIO#)
Quote:
Originally Posted by barned01
chris_rg:
would this require a remapping of the distributor for the 18 r after you have put the 21 r internals in it?
The end result still uses the mechanical advance weights and vacuum advance thingo from the 18r so the advance should be fine. This means you can swap over all the electronic ignition parts such as ignitor and coil as use the as a points replacement option.
Bare in mind that one 18rg dizzy i have here is totally different and 21r bits don't fit.
In my setup though i have removed the weights and added a washer so that the top half of the shaft is locked to the bottom half. I have also adjusted the vacuum advance so that it has no movement. The sensor triggers the computer which handles advance itself.
__________________
RA40 Celica 18r-ge
Megasquirted and sparked
pirated from this thread http://toymods.net/forums/showthread...utor#post16929
Is that the sort of info you were looking for???![]()
3 x RA23's + 2 x RA28's = No Backyard!!![]()
18r-g + straight lpg + t25 turbo + 14 psi = FUN!
The latest Toy : http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=807137
Being in Australia I know nothing about 20R engines, but if they're anything like a 21R, then you'll need to change a few things.
You'll need:
dizzy internals (reluctor stuff if that's what it uses)
ignitor and coil (coils for electonic ignition are not that same as for points -higher output)
an idea of how to wire it up
We used a Mitsubishi Magna coil with a 21R-C ignitor and 22R dizzy internals. That all bolts up together. Then you'd just have to connect the right wires to the right places.
Best of luck to you, they are a fine conversion to do, it fixed the idle on my brother's 18RG.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
I have started the modification. I pulled the electronics parts out without a drama and I undid the screw inside the top of the distributor shaft at the top under the rubber grommet. But the top section with the square timing mechanism wont come out.
I am quite sure that it is supposed to lift off a keyed shaft but no budge. How much pressure can I put on the top section to pull it ouf of the dizzy body or is there something I am not doing properly?
Any ideas.
I take it we don't use the 21R counterweight mechanism but just fit the circular platform with the electronics module into the 18RG case after sliding the new electronic trigger shaft over the old 18RG one after removing the cam/points lobes, the ire is fitted by cutting a small notch in the side of the ND if you dont have that model in the photo?
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
did you remove the two springs, the circlips and the advance weights?
you've also removed the rotating plate which the vacuum advance hooks onto and which the VR sensor bolts to?
If all that is done, then yes it should just come off. Soak the bastard in INOX overnight and use a bigger prybar![]()
...... butt scratcher?!
if you got some cash try this ignition out, i was running one on my 18RC and it is sweet
as, and is being transplanted to my 18RG.
http://www.cars-gb.com/lumenition.htm
Yeah got it soaking in penetrene give it a go this am TA.
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
Have you checked for a small circlip down in the hole in the end of points cam part?Originally Posted by RT104GT
From memory i thought there was a circlip in there to stop shaft moving up.
Does the points cam part move back and forth in the bobweight travel area, if so it is not seized and something else is holding it.
regards
jon
Last edited by jonra23; 24-09-2006 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Crap spelling ability
The only circlip I remember seeing was to hold on the vacuum advance lever.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Originally Posted by Steve M
That was the 21R dizzy.
There are two circlips on the counterweight assmbly.
The 18RG has 1 circlip also on the advance retard mechanism (Octane selector).
The 18R has two circlips to remove.
I sat here all last night pulling stuff apart..
For all that the only dizzys I have seen illustrating all these mods in my opinion are 18R dizzys.
The true 18RG dizzy did not have a tongue and keyway to drive an oil pump, as the oil pump is mid-engine driven by the dummy shaft gear and key held by the aluminium blanking plate and o-ring seal.
I have two dizzys one out of an API import and one from my old 210 headed engine.
The old dizzy from the 210 headed engine has not got the oil pump drive key/tongue.
The extended dizzy shaft will not fit into my timing cover which is from the first model engine 1973, I have to use the early dizzy and that leaves me with no back up in case of a failure and I have to step back.
or when i do the timing chain rebuild I can use the front cover off my API spare engine which has the machining to take the shaft with the oil pump drive.
Still cant get my 21R shaft top out its rusted in.
Back to wreckers tomorrow.![]()
Last edited by RT104GT; 24-09-2006 at 11:56 AM.
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
I've never seen an 88210 dizzy but I know that 88230, 88251 and 88270 18RG dizzies did have the tongue for the oil pump drive.
Personally I prefer the later model "large case" 18RG dizzies as they have a spring tensioner in them to take out the shaft's thrust slack. I imagine that would make ignition timing a little more accurate.
I haven't seen an 18R dizzy with that yet.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
I am with you.
The 21R body is nicer/easy to work on.
It might be possible to change the whole 18R body over.
And yes the 18RG dizzys are 1973 and 18RG's never came here until 1979 in containers,
I ran alone for at least 3 to 4 years scrounging what parts I needed and buying when away overses.
It is a pity that parts are not available either old or after market.
I must check and find out what dizzys fit what engine.
I am sure that the corolla n corona dizzys are interchangeble somehow.
I have 8 Coronas 2 Celicas and sundry Corrollas at my disposal untouched in local wreckers, gonna do some scrounging again.![]()
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
Bookmarks