Using longer pushrod for clutch slave cylinder...A Bad Idea?

[Toobs]

It won't do a BIT OF GOOD, unless it's like takai's problem with the piston popping out. Nothing can adjust the length of travel since it will ONLY move as much as the amount of fluid the MC displaces in it, and nothing more. Adjustable pushrods only work on designs that have a spring on the clutch fork that bottoms out the slaves's piston.
The fork pivot point adjustment would be very good IF the fork was making contact with the bellhousing. It isn't is it?
How much freeplay is there???
Like others have said, adjust the freeplay at the MC, inspect the pedal box, or get another clutch.

Wrong.
A longer pushrod will push the slave cylinder further back into its bore allowing about half a cm more travel.

[mullett]

I'm going to give you some rep for that comment, because you're bloody right. If only i'd read it earlier...I made up the longer rod, It made not the slightest difference. oh dear...this could get to be nasty. If something stupid like the clutch starts to hold me up....damn.

[takai]

Wrong.
A longer pushrod will push the slave cylinder further back into its bore allowing about half a cm more travel.

Yeah, but if the MC doesnt push enough fluid then you wont get any more travel.

Sounds like you need a new MC mullett. Possibly check the sizings on each, they might be mismatched (i.e. master smaller than slave) which woudl cause lack of travel. I have the opposite, bigger master than slave, hence more fluid flow, and hence more travel...

[willwal98]

have you tried adjusting the bracket on the clutch pedal yet? There should be a threaded rod with a "U" shaped bracket that joins onto the pedal. Just wind it out a bit and you should get beter pedal postion.

[allencr]

HOW MUCH FREE PLAY???
Besides adjusting the pedal's clevis/pushrod for contacting
the clutch MC piston to remove any slack, it can be adjusted a bit(or maybe more then a bit) until just before it just shuts off the little valve in the end of the MC. This'll give you the MAXIUM amount of clutch fork travel you'll ever get with the MC & slave sizes you've got. You'll know you've adjusted it too far/much, when you're unable to push the slave piston & push fluid back into the reservoir.

Bad pressure plate and/or disk is coming apart.

[styler]

just on the adjustable side of things, i saw some pbr replacement ones (older hilux i think) that comes with an adjustable unit from factory and which have the half ball end the same as some common older toyotas. or maybe you can find a longer one and cut it down.

other than that with my custom clutch setup, i found it hard to make your own rod due to the fact that the half ball end would be difficult to replicate. i thought of using an original end and another shaft which would be connected by being inside a tube with each side welded in. tube has to be fairly thin. i tried using an entire thick shaft once as a replacement and as the piston moves the shaft tends to push against the piston sides making it score on the cylinder, as i found out later.

not sure if this applies to your gearbox but just checked my t50 box and the piviot point is a solid unit, you could use washers to space it out about 3mm or so safely or if you could find a longer one from another box to put in that would work too if the thread and piviot head are the same.

or you could form a thread on your rod and use a connecting nut (cant remember the proper name atm) close to the ball end and then put some threaded rod in the other end with the thread ground off where its in the slave cylinder but i think the weld method is easier.

or you could find the radius of the ball, buy a steel ball and drill / tap a thread into it, then add a rod or drill and weld a rod on.

the master cylinder has a set amount of fluid it displaces on a full stroke, the slave recieves the same amount of liquid but moves less (another story), none the less a required set distance. they are both meant to be at rest when not used, ie the start position. this system enables the slave to move the full distance to disengage the clutch and also allows the slave to return to the start to fully engage the clutch. its a matched system of movement. it also allows the system to not be pressurised all the time.

with the pedal all that is needed is that the pedal puts the master cylinder through its entire stroke before the pedal runs out of travel. then the slave will move the required amount needed.

anyway this is just from my experience so hopefully some of it is useful, spent a fair while on the master and slave clutch setup.

peace out

[RobST162]

Didn't want to drag this up again, but it's the most relevant thread on toymods, so why not keep contributing.

The GT-Four has had an aftermarket HD clutch installed.

When I wind out the adjustment on the pedal so that there's free-play on the pedal (as there's supposed to be) I can't change gears (clutch hasn't released).

When I wind it in (so the slave's already under some tension??) I can use the car fine, but the release is very close to the floor.

The "U" shaped bracket actually has an extra nut welded on, presumably for the purpose of allowing the clutch to function 'properly' by the winding out of the rod out right into this secondary nut (as indeed it is for me to be able to drive).

a) what's the deal, any ideas
b) will this potentially endanger my throwout bearing/reduce it's life if there's some ambient pressure on the fork?
c) how can this be fixed? different master cylinder??? Not sure if it looks standard or not.

Just got the car 2 days ago.

[ToDa30/4]

http://www.speed-source.net/ , these guys have a slave clyn. rod that will fix your problem I use their other parts All have done the job. cheers dave,

[RobST162]

this won't mean that the throwout bearing might be touching the clutch at rest?

[Dale]

It shouldn't be rob, I've been running a lengthened slave cylinder rod for around 50 000km now, had the clutch out at 40,000km of use swapping it from the wreck and all components were fine

Btw, no need to order something, just buy a cheap phillips head screwdriver from supercheap and cut it off to the right length, round the ends a bit.. perfect! If you get the right size the diameter is almost spot on as well

[Cuts]

I had the same dramas, after putting my brass button clutch in, and about 20 000 kms later it got real bad real quick.
I made myself up a silver steel slave cylinder rod, this helped a little, there wasnt enough adjustment on the master cylinder to take up the rest. So i got a stainless braided clutch line made up, $60 or so later, again helped a little, made the clutch much nicer but still not enough.
205's dont have the pedal box cracking issues like earlier gens do, so that left....
To pull the box out and check if the clutch fork was fcracked and bent, but as they are cast its unlikely, more likely that the pivot point was worn, so got a new clutch fork for was around $100 or so i think.

I was going to replace the pivot ball (205 ones are a ball and bolt in one piece) but it was going to be ex japan and weeks later, so i put a .5mm shim behind it, and while the lot was appart i got new pucks put on the clutch, the fingers redone on the preasure plate and machined (cost me nothing, npc are good like that). Quick machine of the flywheel and it was done.

after all of that she is good as gold.
hope thaq essay helps your troubles

failing all of that you could get your slave cylinder sleeved or the master bored out, this will give more travel.

EDIT. you dont want the throwout bearing to be touching the preasure plate all the time, it will wear out real quick, so when you adjust the clutch under the dash be sure that its not tight. Also you can adjust the clutch pedals "out" stop, meaning the pedal will be closer to you but you can adjust the master cylinder out further giving you more travel.

But you might just be delaying the inevitable. Just double checking its not a cracked pedal box? If it is i happen to have in my half cut a low kms pedal box, that i dont really need as its a 185 one.

[RobST162]

^^^ eek cuts I don't want to take the motor out no matter what at this stage.. lol anything to avoid that!

dale, yeah might try and get a rod made up.. good to hear bout your bearing being fine

so you don't (dale) have any freeplay then in the pedal I guess...??\

edit: would a longer slave cylinder rod pull the dust-cover off when extended??

[GBC_069]

i had my rod extended in my 162, except i had the exact opp problem, my take out point was right up the top, so i dono if it was cut or extended, either way it fixed it good !

dono if it was modified at the pedal box or modified at the slave

[RobST162]

hey nick thanks mate, where did you get that done (save ordering one from speed source.. - I do want a nice tidy job hey..

Rob

[ToDa30/4]

hey nick thanks mate, where did you get that done (save ordering one from speed source.. - I do want a nice tidy job hey..

Rob

why mess with that ~ solution offered . advice not taken unsubscribing from thread .