Buying an ST185 GT4 - Inherant Problems?

[SIR32]

Now, don't flame me, i did a search before i posted this topic - i couldn't find a great deal that relates to this, so either this hasn't been covered before (doubtful) or i suck at teh search function (probably)

Aaaanyway....

Found an Imported 1990 Model GT4 in a caryard for a decent price (12k) - had a look over the car briefly, and couldn't see anything that stood out as being dodgey etc about it. Checked all the usual things like oil, water, accident damage, general wear and tear etc, and everything appears to be in good condition.
Am going to test-drive it tomorrow morning, and from there will probably make a decision if we take it or not, assuming we find nothing too wrong with it...

i guess what i'm asking, is what are common problems/weaknesses with these? anything i should pay particular attention to? stuff like that.

Thanks
Jason

[Roundy]

rear diff mount for one, they are a rubber unit and can decay. just gotta stick you head under the rear of the car and have a look, i don't have an image for it tho unfortunately

check for turbo smoke maybe, just let it idle for a while and if some oil smoke starts coming out the exhaust chance is the turbo oil seals are going.

I wouldn't say there is a lot of things that are specific to the GT4 however, just give it a thorough look over, a lot of problems with them aren't exactly cheap to fix

tho i have to say i think 12k is possibly a bit steep.

[tooch]

Listen for loud clunks from the suspension when going over bumps, it indicates worn out strut top mounts, my car had one and it was very loud. Pay good attention to the gear shifting, particularly 2nd and 3rd gear, if it crunches or is difficult, the synchro's are probably worn.

Check the radiator top tank for cracks and leaks, mine leaked twice.
Check for coolant leaks coming from underneath/behind the turbo, there is a hose there which commonly leaks after a number of years, and is a bitch/expensive to replace. Also make sure the timing belt has been changed at 100,000kms as it's also a bitch/expensive job. You can use things like this as a bargaining tool too.

If the seller will let you, see if you can check the ECU for codes, by shorting TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector which is near the passenger side strut tower, and watching the flashing of the check engine light. If it's anything other than a constant even flash every second or so, then there are reported codes which can indicate a fault.

For $12k, it would want to be pretty immaculate for a 90 model import (non Group A).

[SIR32]

well, its from a caryard, hence the 'steep' price...

will check out those things... i had a bit of a look at alot of those things the first time i looked at it as well, but will double-check them tomorrow.
Its actually for my brother... if we decide to take it, he will be trading his Series IV RX7 Turbo + cash for it

funnily enough, all the cars that i've seen up here in QLD are around or over that price

[tooch]

well, its from a caryard, hence the 'steep' price...

will check out those things... i had a bit of a look at alot of those things the first time i looked at it as well, but will double-check them tomorrow.
Its actually for my brother... if we decide to take it, he will be trading his Series IV RX7 Turbo + cash for it

funnily enough, all the cars that i've seen up here in QLD are around or over that price

Wow, he could have picked up Shane (sikx5's) immaculate Group A ST185 with a GT28RS, speedline wheels, and other nice goodies for not a whole lot more than $12k, it was in Brissy too!