Hilux front brakes

[1JZ~lux]

Spoke to an engineer on Monday. Backing plates aren't needed, spacer needs to be a solid piece of metal, welding won't be be passed but machining is ok. My hubs still haven't turned up so I don't know when I'll get to do this.

[infotechplus]

I've been doing some ringing around to get prices on the Falcon BA front slotted rotors (DBA Catalog No. DBA504SL and 504SR). I never cease to be amazed at the price variations for the same product!

Here's what I found. All prices have been obtained in the last 5 days from major retailers in the Sydney suburbs.

I asked for a quote for a pair of DBA Falcon BA slotted rotors:


Repco North Parramatta (02) 9890 7522 - $141 ea

Repco were the only store that could supply the rotors off the shelf.

Autobarn Auburn (02) 9648 7429 - $169 ea
Autobarn Blacktown (02) 9676 4355 - $149 ea

Autobarn stores have to order the rotors, but can supply same day if ordered in the morning.

Supercheap Auto Villawood - $155 ea
Supercheap Auto Wentworthville - $130 ea (+$11.95 delivery)

Supercheap were cheap but charged a delivery fee. Could supply next day.

Auto One Granville (02) 9682 7900 - $140.25 ea
Auto One Seven Hills (02) 9622 1653 - $169 ea

Could supply same day if ordered early.

Auto Pro Homebush (02) 9764 4360 - $125 ea

Same day delivery

Robbo's Blacktown (02) 9621 2344

Robbo's said they would supply RDA rotors equivalent for #200 pr



Hope this helps anyone contemplating this upgrade.

Cheers,

Peter

[2jzhilux]

so are the ba discs the way to go???
do you still need to machine the hub or inside of discs??

[infotechplus]

so are the ba discs the way to go???
do you still need to machine the hub or inside of discs??

I can't answer that. Finances permitting, I'll order a set in the next couple of weeks and see what else needs to be done but in terms of fitting this upgrade, yes, these are a better proposition than second hand GTS-T rotors as you don't need as much work to be done to fit the calipers to the Lux, and you get more meat on the rotor being new (and slotted).

When I get the rotors I'll be doing a write-up. Hopefully, my good friends at Western Brake and Steering will be able to do any machining required.

Cheers,

Peter

[SL666]

The Disks on my kit are BA's.. it came with billet hubs - without taking it all apart again, i can't really see how you could machine the stock hubs to make the disks fit properly.

[1JZ~lux]

The Disks on my kit are BA's.. it came with billet hubs - without taking it all apart again, i can't really see how you could machine the stock hubs to make the disks fit properly.

The machining takes the edge of the hub back to the edge of the meatier parts around the studs. Its @ 15mm taken off.

I now have the R32 setup completed and it fits like a glove except that I can't get my wheels back on. The side of the caliper hits the spokes. New rims will have to have a center thickness greater then 40mm and a width no greater then 95mm. Pics will be up tomorrow night.

[1JZ~lux]

Well I got the new wheels on today and fitted longer studs. Started the Lux up and let her warm (pretty rough after sitting for 6&a1/2 weeks) and when I rolled out of the workshop I had no brakes! the peddle went to the floor and nothing happened. I bled the brakes enough to replace the fluid twice over and its still the same. If I pump the peddle a few times it firms up but only for a few seconds. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?

[SL666]

is fluid dropping in the resivour? eg is the fluid going somewhere outside the brake system somewhere?

so you just have no pedal feel at all?

is your master cyl big enough for the larger caliper volume?

[infotechplus]

Well I got the new wheels on today and fitted longer studs. Started the Lux up and let her warm (pretty rough after sitting for 6&a1/2 weeks) and when I rolled out of the workshop I had no brakes! the peddle went to the floor and nothing happened. I bled the brakes enough to replace the fluid twice over and its still the same. If I pump the peddle a few times it firms up but only for a few seconds. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?

Good to see I'm not the only one with that problem 1J.

I finished putting the calipers on and installing the braided lines (directly from master cylinder to caliper), then filled the MC with fresh fluid, bled the system until I'd used almost half a bottle of Valvoline synthetic fluid. The pedal was good like yours for a few pumps but as soon as I turned the engine on, the pedal went to the floor. This was last weekend.

I took it for a drive 'round the block thinking it might come up with a couple of pumps. I gotta tell you it's pretty hairy when the pedal continues to go to the floor (after the SC comes on!)

The manual says it's air pockets in the MC. You have to bleed the MC by uninstalling all the brake lines, and placing your fingers over the outlets as you release the brake pedal slowly after a couple of pumps to expunge the air. This is supposed to clear the air pockets. Then reconnect lines and bleed again, starting at the back calipers, then front.

I'm doing mine on Saturday but if you do yours beforehand by the above method, and it works, let us know.

Cheers,

Peter

[lexsmaz]

" If I pump the peddle a few times it firms up but only for a few seconds." So what happens then ? if you keep your foot on the pedal does it drop away to the floor ? as SL666 said are you loosing any fluid from the m/cyl resorvoir, you might have to do it a few times to be accurate on the fluid loss, ( leave the resorvoir cap loose ) if no fliud loss, possibly m/cyl leaking internally past the seals & bleeding back into resorvoir ... Need more feedback ... how was the pedal when you bled them high or low pedal ?...

[infotechplus]

Well I ... fitted longer studs.

Which studs 1J?

I think I might need slightly longer ones on the front of my Lux too.

New from Toyota or wrecking yard (if so which car/model)?

Any specs/photos?

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

I checked for leaks at the MC and at the calipers, both front and rear. No leaks. Everything is good.

MC was from MA70 and was working nicely before upgrade. So I assume it's good too!.

I'll wait till Saturday and see what happens.

Cheers,

Peter

[SL666]

new Master cyl or one that was on the car? if you put a new one in you should bench bleed it, but if you have managed to bleed the brakes, there shouldn't be enough air in there to not get a pedal...

[lexsmaz]

infotechplus, with your brake situation, how was the pedal height when you bled the brakes, motor off ....check the height of the pedal when down in relation to the firewall, gives can give you a better idea of pedal height .... does the pedal come back up if you turn the motor off & pump the air out of the booster, if the pedal feels ok, but lowish when motor is off, & drops away when you start up the car which is normal, i would suspect the m/cyl is too small in bore size ... but you need to also recheck the pads are fitted & sitting well, not worn pads or discs ... Wheel bearings too loose etc etc ... lots of variables ....

[1JZ~lux]

The MA70 & Hilux M/Cs have a 1" bore and should be sufficient.

Turns out I did a really stupid thing. I put the calipers on upside down (left on the right, right on the left). There may also be some air in the M/C as during the swap the front of the reservoir emptied. Seeing the car is at the mech's to get the clutch changed (too bigger job, not enough time for me to do) they are going to look at the brakes.

Peter: I bought M12x1.5x73mm studs for the front and cut them down to 40mm of thread. I haven't done the back yet.