AE86 Brake Upgrade - Here is what I did

[Sprinter]

AE86 Brake Conversion
The goal was to use only Toyota branded components that can be sourced for a reasonable price. All components except the caliper bracket can be easily sourced. The brake bracket was CNC machined by Alloy Race Components in Melbourne. The prices are as 18 - 24 months ago when I did the build.

I am using EBC Green Pads DP2936.

NOTE: there are 2 different pads available for the SW20 callipers as they changed the calliper between the years of 1990-1992 (DP2936) and 1992-2000 (DP2995).

The kit components are:

Component Price Notes
Custom machined Aluminium brake callipers bracket. Bracket machined from 6061 T6 grade aluminium using a CNC mill. See brake1.jpg below.
Cost $600AUD a pair (I have 2 more pairs if anyone is interested)

SW20 MR2 twin spot brake callipers 90-92 Model. Can be sourced from most import wreckers so you may be able to negotiate a better price
$90AUD Each

SW20 280mm ventilated rotor redrilled for 4 x 114.3 PCD. Requires modification to fit to the hat costing $50 each (may be different wherever you get it done.
$155AUD Each (approx.)

The setup uses the standard AE86 front struts and bearing carrier.

I also fitted braided brake lines to suit the AE86. These were sourced through Meridian Motorsport and are street legal.

Pictures
Caliper brackets: Brake1.jpg
Assembled Strut (without the braided lines ): Brake2.jpg and Brake3.jpg

I also sourced a Starion Brake MC for the larger piston size. Some fiddling with the existing lines got it all fitted. If you keep the stock brake MC you will get a little more pedal travel than you want.

HTH

[takai]

Nicely done, but if you were getting new brackets made up anyway why not go with the S4/5 RX7 4-spot calipers?

[Sprinter]

In short? I didnt think the brackets would cost so much . I was keen to keep it all Toyota ... yeah weird rather than pragmatic. Anyways, it has worked a treat.

[CrUZida]

Yeah, CNC brackets are mucho exxy.
Thats why my Nissan AE86 brake thread died in the ass.

[GasedT18]

CrUZida,

you mean this thread "xA6x, xZ1x, xX7x + others FRONT AND REAR Brake Upgrade", http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=239

These alloy brackets look very impressive. In general I like the elegance of them. I do have quite a few questions though. Have you done any engineering on the choice of the metal and the shape of the bracket regarding it's strength and properties or talked to engineers about it (if you aren't one)? Is the choice of metal cost effective vs other metals or is this not a factor? I noticed in brake1 that there is a fillet/radius on the inside edge ('corner') of the step, is there also one on the other side?

Is there any particular reason why the bracket is cut away between the bolt locations? It seems to me you would get better heat transfer if the flat on the caliper was flush with the bracket or is it cut away to fit the shape of fatter calipers? Further, if it wasn't cut away holes could be drilled in different locations to suit other calipers. They could be supplied completely blank and then holes could be drilled to suit other struts. I take it brake2.jpg was just a mock up for the photo, two different bolts, washers etc - what bolt would you recommend and what torque given the choice of alloy?

What do engineers say about redrilling rotors - especially if one hole is close to another?

...Starion Brake MC...

That's quite an exotic part, what other Master Cylinders (MC's) have you looked at? It seems people have found all sorts of MC replacements - IIRC Ford Escort in one case.

In short? I didnt think the brackets would cost so much .

Did you ring around and get quotes? How much would volume production bring the price down? Did you provide a DXF file or a drawing?

I could imagine the price coming down considerably with a large workshop doing the work and a group buy.

I have been following the various threads on brake upgrades (and looking at what people have done) as best I can in anticipation of finding an upgrade for my T-18 (TE72).

cf. takai's thread [Guide] Corona/Peugot/Hilux Conversion with Height Adjustable Coilovers [56k DIAF] http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13803

I am keen to find a solution that is cost effective in time and money as well as providing a streetable solution, and by this I mean things like no excessive negative camber leading to rapid tyre wear and one that is legal or easily certifiable by an engineer. I also mean being able to obtain the components relatively easily. In the least all I think I may require is vented rotors and perhaps good quality pads as I expect this would be sufficient for my needs and could be signed off quickly (rear disks look exotic but are likely not to function any better in small cars than properly working drums for ordinary driving - but changing pads is easy and drum pads should be machined to fit the radius of the drum - pain).

Your bracket means not having to run around finding 3 or more components - e.g., lower control arms, struts, coil over tubes etc and stuffing around cutting spring perches off, shortening and welding struts - these things are independent - one can do the other mods at a later time if the need arises. Your bracket suits a different niche in mods.

Before I'd baulk at paying $600 I'd like to cost out alternatives including possibly more readily available calipers and rotors (why blanks aren't more available, DBA?, from what I've read, defeats me). Stock items are more easily replaceable too. I think if there was a Toymods group buy I'd be in there. The clinching factor would be if I knew an engineer would sign off on them. If for example putting a 3TGTE into a T18 requires a 'signatory' (i.e., engineers certificate) and a brake upgrade I'd certainly like to show them the brackets.

Lots of questions I know - I feel like I'm on the panel of the new inventors ha

+rep , great effort.

David

[CrUZida]

CrUZida,

you mean this thread "xA6x, xZ1x, xX7x + others FRONT AND REAR Brake Upgrade", http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=239

http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3876

[EVOSTi]

starion master cylinders are VERY easy to come by. i am using one and its a near bolt in job for the sprinter with only the front line needing to be remade, i did it myself with a flaring tool.

i made the mistake of buying a second hand master cylinder a few years back, only to find out a short while later that a brand new one could be had for a similar price.

[Sprinter]

Hey all,

Thanks for the feedback!

GasedT18:

These alloy brackets look very impressive. In general I like the elegance of them. I do have quite a few questions though. Have you done any engineering on the choice of the metal and the shape of the bracket regarding it's strength and properties or talked to engineers about it (if you aren't one)? Is the choice of metal cost effective vs other metals or is this not a factor? I noticed in brake1 that there is a fillet/radius on the inside edge ('corner') of the step, is there also one on the other side?

The brackets were developed with the team at Meridian Motorsport and Alloy Race Components. The primary reason was to ensure that the bracket design and alloy choice was not only light but strong with a view to getting it through engineering easily. In hindsight I think its overengineered.

As EVOSti said, the Starion MC is a bolt on fitment to the AE86 brake booster. Mine $15 from the jolly roger pick-a-part. The front line just needed a bend.

Totally understand on the bracket considerations. I got 3 pair as I had 2 other interested parties. As always in these kind of stories they backed out when it was time to pay. $600 is what they owe but if you were interested we could work out a better price.

Quote:
In short? I didnt think the brackets would cost so much .

Did you ring around and get quotes? How much would volume production bring the price down? Did you provide a DXF file or a drawing?

I am not sure if a diagram was made. I know the CNC machine had this design programmed however I dont know if they still have the pattern.

IIRC DBA do make blanks during their production runs however when i costed it it was more expensive than sourcing 2nd hand disks and getting them cleaned up.

We had an engineer look at them but they werent officially signed off.

Your bracket means not having to run around finding 3 or more components - e.g., lower control arms, struts, coil over tubes etc and stuffing around cutting spring perches off, shortening and welding struts - these things are independent - one can do the other mods at a later time if the need arises. Your bracket suits a different niche in mods.

Yep that was exactly the point. It was intended as a bolt on replacement. Big enough to handle the occasional track event (its done PI and Winton) but be perfectly behaved around traffic. Now of course it does add weight - 280mm discs and 2 spot calipers are heavier except the bracket .

FWIW the lower arm is rose-jointed for adjustable camber (about .8 neg for the street), 30mm RCA's, KYB Sport Gas and King springs.

[Viper]

So enginnered or not?

Just asking as your struts don't have the stone/dust guard on the back of the disc anymore.

Not sure if it would pass without that.

But otherwise, nice job on the design and final product.
Who owns the design?

[Sprinter]

No the brake brackets havent been engineer certified. Only eyeballed. OK re the stone guard. I am not running them either side.

I guess I own the design.

[Sprinter]

Here are a few more pictures of the installation. Before, After, caliper comparison and the bracket fitted. I bought new high tensile bolts to fit and used the same torque setting as the factory manual (I would need to check it if you wanted to know).

[thechuckster]

hoefully not a dumb question... what's the distance between the mounting bolts in the SW20 calipers?

[GasedT18]

Sprinter,

can you please take a shot of this image 'P0003130 (sml).jpg' but in errr profile - side on - and then a shot with the disk & hub on - side on. I'd also like to see your rose-jointed lower arm /adjustable camber thingo if you could.

I noticed the tyre rub mark in that shot - better sort out the lock stops eh? I have the same but also some fouling at the rear of the wheel well The sort of stuff to get knocked back on when over the pits or a defect notice from a cop having a bad day.

Do brake/suspension shops use brackets?

CrUZida & takai - your combo work is good too - some of the discussion on the threads makes it difficult to work out what works and what doesn't e.g., fouling on knuckle issue, varients of Hilux calipers, dust guards etc - it would be good to see it written up as a guide without having to wade through the chatter.

Struts, shocks, springs, brake upgrades, camber adjustment, steering, coilovers have been a bit of a mystery to me - there's too many interconnecting variables - but with the effort you guys are making it's starting to come together - I'm talking more about the practicalities and technology rather than the hard core theory of suspension systems - got a bit of homework ahead of me there - but by all means point the way I'm also more of a theoretical learner - I need to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it and the photo's help heaps. I also hate getting caught out - getting a part only to find it's some variant that doesn't do the job - that pisses me off - I think I'm repeating myself - too late to think clearly.....

David

[Sprinter]

what's the distance between the mounting bolts in the SW20 calipers?

I will get back to you this weekend. I have to pull the brackets from storage.

can you please take a shot of this image 'P0003130 (sml).jpg' but in errr profile - side on - and then a shot with the disk & hub on - side on. I'd also like to see your rose-jointed lower arm /adjustable camber thingo if you could.

I can do some more shots of the bracket but to get the profile view means pulling a wheel off ... If I can squeeze the camera between the rim and the disc ... maybe not.

I will get a shot of the rose jointed arm though.

I noticed the tyre rub mark in that shot - better sort out the lock stops eh?

Hehe actually it was wrong offset on the rims. Too far out. New rims fixed that

Do brake/suspension shops use brackets?

I have seen everything from my kind of bracket setup to slabs of steel that happened to be the right thickness. Most brake and suspension places would not want to touch something like this. You need a specialist (like Race Brakes) or a race car workshop (like Meridian).

Yeah do your research, take a tape measure, get to 90% confident and buy your stuff and then realise you missed something

HTH