How to install lock spacers

[Sam_Q]

Lock spacers (as shown below) are a small spacer that goes onto the end of the steering rack shaft on either end. It allows the steering arms to move further into the steering rack to allow for more lock. I have been told it gives about 7 degree more angle with the spacers I used and it reduced my turning circle by about half a meter. It is a very cheap upgrade at $25 to $30 or easly machined if the option is there. This will push your tow right in so a wheel alignment is really needed a short time after having this done. Unless there is some damage or a different set up is used then there should be enough factory adjustment in the steering arms to allow for it. It isnt necessary normally to remove the steering arms or rods to install these.






Here is how I installed mine:




Looking under my sprinter this is how it is standard, It has the rubber steering boot on either end of the steering rack with a clamp on either side.

- Undo the first clamp (1) with a screwdriver, can be real hard to get to.
- Using some plies squeeze the second clamp (2) and slide it off
- Slide the rubber boot off as much as possible





This is what you end up with after the boot is slid down, the end clamp (1) can be left in that position, the boot needs to be slid off the end of the shaft (to the right for the drivers side), to do this it may be needed to remove the steering rod clamp (5) to fully slide the boot out of the way. Alternatively a second person could hold the boot to one side while the rack is being worked on.





With the boot moved to one side the rack end ball joins are revealed. To undo the rack end two spanners are needed. I found however the locking tab (2) was getting in the way of my spanner so I bashed it out of the way.

- If locking tab (2) is bend over the flat secttions of the rack end then bend it away using a screwdriver and a hammer as done so in the picture. When taking the rack end off care must be taken to not twist the steering rack in any way, putting force on this may well damage the steering rack.

- Place a 24mm spanner on the steering rack flat section (1)
- Place a 30mm spanner onto the rack end ball joint (3)
- While holding the 24mm spanner still, turn to undo the 30mm spanner
- Completely remove the ball end and throw away the locking tab (2)





Some locking compond suck as Loctite is recomended for the rack end because the ball joints previously has a locking tab as a saftey but this can no longer be used.

- Place the lock spacer onto the thread that is on the end of the steering shaft
- Use some locking compond onto thread
- Screw ball joint back onto steering rack
- Tighten and re-assemble in reverse order as earlier and repeat process for other side.

[TurboRA28]

Good write up mate!

[psychofox]

I looked at putting these on my 86 (before i smashed it up) when I replaced my inner rack ends. I didn't end up doing it as I was concerned about the amount of thread engagement of the rack end into the actual rack. How much thread was actually engaging into the rack with these fitted?

Do you run Power Steering Arms?

[Sam_Q]

by memory about 12mm of the thread went in, the theory is that the maximum strength is acheived when the the thread is wound in to the the same length as the diameter. I believe I have that, but only just.

You know its tempting for me to try and make something that is a bolt on and then I could have as much lock as I wanted, I know I don't have time for it though.

No I don't have power steering arms, why?


Oh also this might upset people a bit but I didn't fit this to drift better, I just wanted better manoeuvrability at low speeds

[kingmick]

They have been used in racing for well over 20 years! You need to be very careful and i wouldnt recommend it for a road going car unless you know exactly what your doing, they can be very dangerous if not made or installed properly.

[The Last Streetfighter]

From Qld vehicle mods guide. "Steering limit stops must not be adjusted
to reduce the turning circle in order to allow the fitting
of the alternative rims and tyres."

Otherwise, nice writeup. I am using the AE101 PS in my AE90 and I feel I have an increased turning circle now :-(

[TurboRA28]

These would increase the turning circle though?

Still, either way, im sure they are illegal.. But so is everything these days and they are covered by rubber boots so who's to know

[Sam_Q]

kingmick: Could the hazrd be that they are too long and don't leave enough thread or that the arn't redone up properly? otherwise whats the hazard?

streetfighter: that rule doesnt quite make sense to me, it sounds like they are trying to stop people modifying the steering and not foul against anything with their new wheels, but they say reduce the turning circle not increase it?? another thing is that it is almost impossible for someone to know that theres are installed without taking the boot off as turbora28 said. I am going to leave these in when my car goes to the engineer and I bet he won't know.

[kingmick]

Yes those, plus if done in alloy and slammed, you get the idea im sure!

[RobertoX]

there is also the danger that the steering linkage may invert on itself -so that when the steering wheel is straightened the wheel keeps on going around and turns backwards. But fairly unlikely... (this will be able to happen if the steering arm can move around far enough such that the steering rack ball joint, the steering arm ball joint and the strut axis are all in line).

It will also change the bump steer characteristics as the steering rack ball joint is now spaced out more, did you notice any change when you installed these?

[Sam_Q]

there is no physical way for the linkage to go that far, even if you chopped the whole gaurd out and made an unlimited stearing box. I don't see how it could of changed the bump steer much, if my arms are already straight then it cant change right? no there was no change