Converting to a Bosch Ignition Module (Reluctor Dizzys)

[RA35GT]

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for the work that you do on your car, or any damage caused while following this guide.

Background:
I originally did this mod for the previous owner of my car, the original module carked it and it was impossible to find a new one, after seeing numerous electricians with no joy and even being told to sell the car by one of them! I said I would see if there is anything I could do.

Coincidently I had recently converted my kingswood to electronic ignition (it was a reluctor dizzy and bosch module from a commodore) and knew from the research I did that the same module was used in many cars of 4-8cyls.

Knowing the celica also used a reluctor dizzy I set out to convert it to use the bosch module. This was a fair while ago, the whole job took us approx. two hours from start to finish, the car was running well for over a year and I imagine would still be running now if it wasn't for a BHG!

This article concentrates on converting the reluctor dizzy in my Celica, but a similar procedure should work on other reluctor type ignition systems.

Tools you will need:
1/4" Drive Socket Set
Screwdrivers
Metal File
Soldering Iron / Solder
Diagonal Cutters
Combination Pliers

Parts you will need:
BIM024 Module - See note below
Heatshrink
Female Spade Terminals
Bolts, Nuts. (and some method of preventing it vibrating off, i.e. spring washer, loctite etc.)

Note: The BIM024 module can be found on a number of cars built between 1977 and 1996 (click here for a excerpt of the Bosch catalogue showing the make and models of cars that used the BIM024 module, some cars may not be shown in it). The module was also available brand new from eBay for approximately $40.



Firstly you will need to remove the module and coil from the car, there are just two bolts to undo and four things to disconnect. (The HT lead from the coil, One connector near the dizzy and two closer to the Module). You should have something similar to the pic below.





Then you will have to separate the coil from the module by disconnecting the connector on the coil and undoing the four phillips head screws. You should be left with something like the pic below.





The module is hidden inside this box so you will need to flip it over and undo the four phillip head screws. Then you have to undo the earth wire (single phillips head screw) and push the grommet out of the box.

Now you should be left with the module and all the wiring on its own. You have to cut the wires off close to the module. (Or alternatively you can take the wires out of the connectors and run a new length of wire, this would be the best way to do it).





To maintain a factory look the Bosch module was mounted into the original box. The terminals on the bosch module had to be bent slightly and the two tags underneath the module were filed down.

Two holes were drilled into the original ignitor box to mount the new bosch module. This was done using the module as a template.


Due to the placement of the connectors on the Bosch module the original wires have to be lengthened and female spade terminals soldered/crimped to the ends.

NOTE: There are two different sized terminals on the module, so make sure you check the wiring diagram below before putting the spade terminals on.

The diagram below shows the pinouts of the BIM024 module as well as the corresponding wire colours for the module above.



This is a wiring diagram for the factory ignition module.





Below is the wiring diagram using the Bosch ignitor.



Note: The resistor shown above is found on the factory ignition module, you will have to desolder it from there and connect it to your new wiring.



If you bought a new module it will come with a sachet of heat conductive paste, be sure to spread this over the entire bottom surface of the module. (If you bought it second hand you will have to get some paste, it is available from any electronics shop). You can find a module even on a Repco Catalogue.



The black painted areas above is actually a liquid electrical tape, this is to provide some extra insulation around the connectors as well as to prevent them from vibrating off, its not essential (and looks neater without it).

Re-assemble all the parts and thats it!

Notes:
I did this for the coil and module that was currently fitted to my car. Luckily the original module was big enough for me to fit the Bosch module in its place.

I have an 18RGEU ignition module here and its a lot smaller then the bosch module. In this case it would be necassary to fabricate a bracket to suit the module, probably be a good time to upgrade to a Bosch transformer type coil also (and ditch the ballast resistor)

Rudi.

[MWP]

I did exactly the same thing with my 21R a few years ago.
I also swapped from an old oil-filled coil to a newer transfermer type from a Tercel (same as used in many other newer toyotas).
Still runs well to this day!

Make sure you mount the Bosch module to something thats metal & grounded.
Not doing so can cause overheating and electrical problems.

This is my setup:

[RA35GT]

Looks good mate!

I kept my original coil and module housing, so it looks completely factory.


The module is mounted in the original module housing underneath the coil (metal housing).

[cambelt]

I know the advantage of the bosch igniter for stronger spark etc but id never run one due to the fact that all 024 modules break down some day and will leave you stuck . you wont find that with a factory toyota igniter . (unless mistreated)
Dave

[RA35GT]

Electronics fail all the time...The only reason it was replaced with a 024 was because the factory module died.

How does one mistreat a module?

[cambelt]

Not toyota electronics (99% of the time )
As to mistreating a module , faulty earthing , running a non standard coil , changing the reluctor voltage etc
Im not saying Jap stuff never dies but its far superior in quality than Austarlian bosch .
Not many remember but most jap stuff was coppied off lucas and bosch designs early on .
Like japs tho they copy and make better.
Dave

[79GT]

hey guys, sorry to revamp an old thread, but i am going to need to do this if i cant source a stock ignitor for my 3tgte (i understand i will need to do it 2 times)

but my question is, what are the connectors labled in the diagrams. probably a stupid question, and mostlikely requires a stupid answer. but help would be appreciated. cheers.

[RA35GT]

Just a connector dood. Either two pin or single pin connector. If you look in the photos, they are the green plastic things attached to the wires.

Rudi

[79GT]

yeah that clicked after i wrote the message. i can see that one will go to the taco, but what will the other go to. Jamie

[RA35GT]

One goes to tacho as you pointed out, the other goes to an ignition 12V. It provides power to the module and the coil.

Rudi

[79GT]

ahhh now i am on to it. of course, stupid me. should have thought of that. cheers mate.

Jamie

[jackbyo]

hey I posted that thread recently trying to figure out what ignitor I need
anyways I bought a new BIM024, and a HEC-716 coil. the reconditioned starlet dizzy i got from the states also arrived. all the new stuff is in that attached pic

also attached is a picture of under my hood now and a close up of my the old coil. it's a ke55 corolla with a 4k-c engine

need to clear up

1. under the old coil is the ballast resistor right? that white rectangular unit with 2 wires coming out of it?

2. I need to wire the dizzy with the red and white wires coming out of the green connector on the dizzy and going to the 3 and 7 terminals on the module right? under the green connector thats already mounted on the new dizzy is actually a white wire and a brown wire though.

3. aside from the wires for distributor to the ignitor module, the other wires that are connected to the old coil and resistor will be all I need right?

4. I dont have a tacho on my dash. which terminal or wire is it that's supposed to go to the tacho, and should I just tape that off?

and finally, someone i know told me that this is all pointless without installing an ECU as well.. is this true?


thanks!

confusing

[RA35GT]

1. Yes mate, thats the ballast resistor.

2. Yes.I would guess the red wire is a little faded and turned brown. It doesn't matter if you mix the white and red wires around. Try them both ways, the correct way results in the most advance (Without changing anything else).

3. Indeed.You can get rid of the ballast resistor.
One side of the ballast resistor will be connected to +12V ignition, use this to supply +12V to the new coil+ and the module.
The other side of the ballast resistor would have connected to the old coil+ and may have another wire of it, you do not need any wires from this side of the ballast.

4. If you have no tacho you dont have to do anything extra. Just tape up any wires that arent used anymore. (If you had a tacho it would be from the coil-)

5. Not pointless at all. Getting rid of the points in the dizzy is way worth it. The dizzy still controls timing and advance.

[jackbyo]

thanks mate!

hey I had a go at it with a friend. we marked where the rotor was for the old dizzy, and then dropped in the new one, but it just wouldnt quite make it in. Actually I thought it was in fine, but when we compared it against the old one, it was sitting out by a few millimeters. just where that black rubber o-ring was, it was still visible when the new one was in, but with the old one it disappeared completely.

my mate was worried about it and said that if that o-ring wasnt all the way in that it could leak oil or just wear out from not being lined up properly

any ideas??

cheers

[RA35GT]

It must sit in properly mate, if you can see the oring it wont seal and will leak.

Compare the old and new dizzy shafts they should be identical.

When its fitted does it hit a solid stop or is it just the oring being a little new and firmer?