i'm going to do this soon for my wife's ke70,
i've got two rose joint rod ends and i've also bought a length of 25.4 mm 6061 grade aluminium.....that's as far as i've got![]()
cost so far - $50
So I want to make my panhard rod adjustable. The way I see it is that I will need a sleeve (same diameter as the rod), 2 bolts (to be welded to the cut panhard rod) & 2 locking nuts.
Would I be correct in saying the sleeve will have to be left hand thread at one end?
Anyone done this, know where to get some cheap parts to put one together?
Thanks
Chris
i'm going to do this soon for my wife's ke70,
i've got two rose joint rod ends and i've also bought a length of 25.4 mm 6061 grade aluminium.....that's as far as i've got![]()
cost so far - $50
Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
Do you really want to get rid of your wife that bad ?
Aluminium panhard ???????
do you actully know anything about metal strengths?Originally Posted by rms
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Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
I could ask if you are familiar with Rankine's and Euler's formula for stress in slender columns as well as fatigue limits for 6061 Aluminium ??![]()
oh now you become a smartypants![]()
how about you SHOW me why its bad to use alloy?
Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
Originally when i was thinking of doing this, i was thinking the other way around. I.e. the nuts welded to the original panhard and then bolts to the new 'sleeve'. Like this:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...ght=roadrunner
Even better if you could actually get the threaded sleeve in the link above from somewhereyou would then only have to:
1. Cut panhard
2. Weld nut on each end.
3. ??
4. Profit
Thinking about it, its probably half a dozen in one and 6 in the other. Just posing ideas, i mean Roadrunner probably builds them that way for a reason.
EDIT: Yes regarding your question, both the bolt and nut will have to have an opposite thread (left) to the other side (right). Otherwise you would be undowing one and doing the other one up and would get you no where![]()
Last edited by DoctorDubb; 03-09-2007 at 11:10 AM.
1977 RA28 with 1GGTE - Now Driveable! Just with speed holes and no doors
why not just use 4130? or 1020?
those parts look okay
yes you will need a LHT and a RHT.
revolution racegear should have weld in inserts that would do the job.
Ive use a lot of rose/hemi joints before. They dont last on the road, especially those cheap ones. If you want them to have half a chance you need to buy the teflon lined GREASEABLE ones (that is, ones with grease nipples).
Originally Posted by skiddz
thats what i gotOriginally Posted by Screamn_Sleeka
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Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
No ... not a smartypants.Originally Posted by japlish
You asked the question if I new anything about metal strengths.... yes... it has been a part of my working life for over 40 years and I still learn something every day.
Like the ad on TV ......'guess I'm not young enough to know all the answers'
lol, sorry mate its just sometimes people come on here pretending like they know everything and are total knob's. i guess your notOriginally Posted by rms
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anyway back on topic![]()
Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
Awesome!Originally Posted by Fish
If they do, itll solve a heap of my problems.
Im going through all this at the moment building an adj panhard rods and upper trailing arms.
I was going to do it using 1/2" nominal bore heavy pipe with nuts welded on the ends to take 5/8ths UNF threaded bar & rod ends to adjust the length, but my engineer says this is bad.
He has seen 5/8ths threaded bar bend/break on panhard rods before
So im trying to work out other options.
Hrmmmm... i paid $66 each for my 5/8ths spherical rod ends (heim joints, rose joint, or whatever you want to call em).i've got two rose joint rod ends and i've also bought a length of 25.4 mm 6061 grade aluminium.....that's as far as i've got
cost so far - $50
Apparently all the cheaper ones are not rated for shock loadings like those seen in cars.
The aircraft grade rod ends as used by V8 supercar teams, etc were >$120 ea.
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