The Spray Painting Thread

[love ke70]

what are peoples opinions on the star brand guns that trade tools sell?
i never had dramas with mine but it looks like someone has dropped it on its tip and the spraying isnt so great, and apparently tips are expensive and hard to change? dunno how true this is...
cheers, andy

[o_man_ra23]

The star units are said to be rather high quality units. Find out what the cost of a new tip is before you go and jump to conclusions, and they should be rather easy to change out, as they are meant to be fully disassembled for cleaning.

[love ke70]

from memory i got quoted about 180 for a tip, which i thought was just ridiculous...
and i could never work out how to take the tip off, there a flats as if its meant to be undone, but im stuffed if i could get it, and didnt wanna break it...

["Z" UTE]

Sata and DeVilbis are the top quality guns, and you pay a premium for them, they will however last 5-10 years in a paint shop, with everyday use.

The most cost effective spray gun I ever bought was a Bluepoint gun, from Snap On Tools, just over a hundred bucks. I still use this gun to this day for topcoat and clearcoat, and it is over 6 years old, probably sprayed a dozen cars with it. So next time you see a Snappy truck outside a workshop, jump in and buy one.

cheers Chuck.

[camshere]

I have a Devillbiss GTi Pro Gun, i'm just a weekend warrior on cars, but I've always found the money you spend on tools is worth it. I think it was about $600 from memory, but sprays better than anything else i've ever used, and has low overspray, which is important when you're painting 2 pak in the garage!

I also have a separate gun for primer - doesn't really matter what that one is like so its a pretty versatile one from a place near me - it comes with 3 nozzles 1.2, 1.4 and 1.8 so its great for primer and even filler to some extent. It was only $100

[mideon_696]

how much should I expect to pay for a respray. just want the same colour as i have now...
exterior only. will change to white if its cheaper, lol.
I dont really know anything about it. love to do it myself, with help and tips from this thread, but dont have the time, at all. cept for maybe over christmas break...

["Z" UTE]

mideon_696, colour price can vary heaps, depending on the inclusions in the paint, like flip controllers, pearls, and metallic flakes. that being said, a really nice colour can be had for $50-$100 more than white, so do not bother.

The only way to get a price on a respray in your area, is to flick through the phone book. Talk to other guys in your area who have had a respray, and find a shop that wil do the job on time and on budget. Full resprays for a Commonwhore vary betweem 3 and 8 grand, but some spray painters will do a weekend job for as little as $1,000.00, plus paint.

A proper paint job will chew through $750.00+ just in paint materials.

cheers Chuck.

[mideon_696]

yeah under two grand will keep me happy...i'll ring around, might even go and chat to a few blokes in person, probably better. Annoying thing is, the doors and front guards are good, no damage or flaking or anything. just everything else...the bonnet, boot lid, roof, and rear quarters need spraying IMO. I dont care about slightly different looking colour shades between those areas....couldnt care less.
But yeah, i'll got have a yarn to a couple of guys on monday.

cheers mang

[o_man_ra23]

Look for a smaller, older workshop. Generally the bigger workshops with flashy signs and good advertising (ie colour half page ads in the yellow pages) have big overheads and like to do expensive insurance repairs. Find somebody who started painting Model T Fords when they were new, as he probably doesn't do it for the money anymore, and doesn't have any overheads.

LoveKE70, the only STAR gun I have seen was a grand (Mackay retail price). Don't know the model (couldn't get past the price), but it was gravity feed, and if I had it, I would replace the tip happily for $180. If you are going to throw it out, let me know, and I'll put the freight price and a few dollars for your trouble in your bank account.

[jabbatron]

..........

[RPM016T]

Hey guys,

So i've almost got my car ready for painting after years of sitting in the shed, cutting out rust, doing chassis mods etc, and as you can imagine theres a fair bit of surface rust here and there from the 5 odd years its been sitting there after I stripped it all back. Anyway my question is - after speaking to some young bloke who worked at bunnings and painted his car, he said theres some 'oil' or coating you can use to put on the bare metal until you get it painted to protect it from rusting? I've tried sanding it back to bare metal but it seems by the time I get round to doing the whole car, it has light surface rust forming again. I could coat it with rust converter, but i'd prefer to take it to the painters in BARE metal and leave any etching or paint prep to the experts..

Have you guys heard of this? or have any ideas how to keep it fresh? I see hotrod builds that seem to stay shiney and fresh for months on end! Cheers!

[jeffro ra28]

Deoxidine 624 made by PPG, or De-ox-it. Will provide temporary protection from rust and leave a zinc phosphate coating. It is also primer friendly, although once left for a while i would advice of another coating of it. Depending on strength required, simply dilute with water, scrub rusty area's and other area's you wish to protect with scotch bright then thoroughly wipe of with damp rag.....

[RPM016T]

Deoxidine 624 made by PPG, or De-ox-it. Will provide temporary protection from rust and leave a zinc phosphate coating. It is also primer friendly, although once left for a while i would advice of another coating of it. Depending on strength required, simply dilute with water, scrub rusty area's and other area's you wish to protect with scotch bright then thoroughly wipe of with damp rag.....

Sounds similiar to using plain old rust converter (phosperic acid) and more like a treatment rather than a temporary protective coating? I'm no expert..!?

The reason this oil or whatever it was sounded appealing is that its probably as easy as wax-removing it off once they are ready to etch? I want to avoid the painter having to re-sand the thing over again..

Cheers

[jeffro ra28]

The zinc phosphate coating is your temporary coating and it protects the metal from the rust..... The reason why it is good to use is because the paint adheres to it very well and is actually apart of the painting process for PPG anyway, if you followed it by the book ofcourse.

[RPM016T]

I've found that if I use the phospheric acid to clean the metal up, it works really well, but then I try and wipe as much of it off as possible to minimise the work for the painter i.e. sanding, but when i do this, it had started to rust again! It seems as though I have to put a little more on, but if I do that, it may require sanding which is a pain in the ass when it comes to fiddly bits like door jams, sills etc