The Spray Painting Thread

[Z2TT]

PPG Galvaplast - I take it this is superior to your off the shelf "bog" that you can buy in big tins? Can we use this for bigger dents to that we would normally use normal off the shelf supercheap/repco bog for? since many mention it does shrink, so why not use PPG Galvaplast for all purposes?

So as you say it fills micro scratches, should it be limited to only this use or can I use it to fill up larger dents that are actually visibe?

And what about Vice versa? Can i use the normal "bog" that is avaliable to fill in micro dents, or will it just not work. By micro dents I mean the metal has been pushed back but is not "Feelable" with a hand, but if you look at the metal sideways you can see the metal pushed back like a horizontal line........... Is THIS the type of stuff that you have to use the Galvaplast for?

Or for dents this small of this nature, will highfill primer make them flat?

["Z" UTE]

I simply use the PPG Galvaplast microfine, because it works in all situations, mega filling without bubbles, and great for the fiddly bits. Not cheap, but does a great job. If you are reforming a major part of a guard for instance with "bog" I would suggest using a fibreglass reinforced bog, or do it properly with a welder and some new metal. All panels should be straightened out as best as possible using hammer and dolly, or shrinking hammers and oxy heat. Bog should only be used for filling smaller imperfections, anything deeper than 5mm and you risk the bog falling out. I owned a KE10 way back that had a bonnet repair using half a kilo of bog. Much amusement to the troops as the bog jumped out as we drove across a set of railway tracks!

Your normal bog available at auto stores will generally form a heap of bubbles when mixed, and is made of coarser materials, so not as suitable for filling the smaller pock marks etc.

Hi fill is limited to a thickness of about 1.5mm before sanding, and you would aim for less than 0.5mm when sanded.

cheers Chuck.

[kremsra28]

z ute, my rust converter is septone branded, not sure if its phosporic acid type or not, when i get a chance to get back into the shed i will have a look, i used to use FERTAN but can no longer find it, it was magic stuff!! this septone stuff is hard to see if it has done anything or not where as the fertan turned dark blue when it done its job!

as for the bog over 1shot, i was meaning bog and not ultra fine filler, lol, shoult have ex[plained myself bit better, but thakns for clearing it up for me,i use the camms stuff, its 2 part and comes out nearly pink when its mixed, that too is great stuff, however very expensive but will last for ages, i think i have had my tin for around 5yrs, and is more than likely way over its expiry date, it has heaps of liquid on top which i just mix in really well before use,havent had any probs wit bleed thru or it falling out (which shouldn hapen as its used very very thinly anyways)

as for bog, i use everlast black gold (i think thats wat its called), its green, very very easy to sand, but its very runny and sometimes hard to handle,especially on sill panels and anything thats upside down!!

i also used to use k&h toucan, that was good but not as good as the everlast stuff, septone have a very easy sanding bog too, none of that is suitable for the microfine filling, i have found that its too gritty for the fine stuff.

krem

["Z" UTE]

krem, the everlast black gold sounds perfect for a rapid fill on a horizontal surface, ie a skim coat. Perfect for doing a sunroof back to metal replacement. You could try adding a bit more hardener to decrease the flow out, but the working time would be reduced considerably.

Many years ago we used a product called "Yak Butter", can not remember the manufacturer, but 'twas quite yellow when mixed hence the name.That stuff was as sticky as the Le Braer tar pits.

cheers Chuck.

[pac]

not that i am one admitting to using that forbidden substance BOG, but filler to use is Rage in a purple pink tin

[Z2TT]

What is it with the description of "PPG Galvaplast 2K Fine Filler" in the PPG galvaplast.

Why would it matter what basecoat type your using? whether 2 pac or not as its isolated by the primer?

[da_foles]

Hello spray painters

I'm respraying my 1990 celica gtfour. I'm doing a respray in the original black. Blackish khaki metallic. Anyway there are about five tiny hail dents and a few it her small body blemishes.

The guys at harts automotive paint supplies tell me that I can just scuff up the original paint the spray my new paint straight over. In some places the clear is breaking down and flaking so i will need to sand all this back.. I take it if I get back to metal then I need to prime it?

Can I apply the filler straight to the hail dints over the existing paint? Or should i sand back to metal then Fill?

I'm respraying in acrylic. Would the factory paint be a 2pak? I have read that it I'd not good to spray acrylic over existing 2 pak?

It will be a closed door respray. How do i treat the bumpers they are stacking to crack and you can see the primer coming through.

Thanks Andrew.

[oldcorollas]

53 pages.. so where do i start?

looking to do HVLP.. will be furiously reading this thread in next week or 2

["Z" UTE]

Andrew, if you only have a few dents, it might be worthwhile engaging a panel beater to file finish them. There may even be a chance that the "paintless dent removal" process might work. So consider your options and cost. If the dents can be fixed and the paint is not disturbed, you could get away with a rub back on the clear coat, and a recoat with clear.

If you need to apply filler, the surface needs to be roughened to allow the filler to grip. It is not necessary to go to bare metal if you use the correct body filler.

The only times I have found acrylic over 2pak to be a problem, is on a sanded edge of 2pak, or some thin edges on new 2pak.

As for the bumpers, you will need to block them down to remove the cracks, then prime and paint. If the bumper plastic shows through, coat that area with plastic primer.

cheers Chuck

[pac]

You guys that don't know whats involved in restoring and repairing a classic should leave it to people who do this work for a living. You think you are saving yourself some money but in reality you are devaluing the car in the long run. I have looked at cars recently that have been painted in acrylic in home garage's and really makes the cars look like shitboxes not to mention the harm you are doing to your lungs and that pleases no one. So you guys that are only guessing have a think before stripping a classic. But there are guys that are naturally good with there hands and are obviously talented with anything they touch, this is not directed at you.

[1JZ-Rolla]

^^^^^ Random comment?

What's the issue with blokes having a crack at some DIY and learning something at the same time? We're not talking about a 2000GT or anything here, just generally average cars in many cases, regardless of the "spiritual" value of a "classic"?

Lets face it, you fk up the paint job, you learn, cut it back, and start again. Is it the end of the world so long as you have time, and the ability to evaluate what went wrong to learn for round two (or three, or four), or surrender it to a "professional" if you decide its all too much?

[da_foles]

Thanks chuck for those helpful tips. The paint is to far gone to not warrant a full respray. I will just rough up the existing paint to bog these tiny hail dints.

As for this car being a classic I wish. It would only get me 5k with a paint job from a professional. My old man has painted a few cars in his time so I feel we will do a decent job. And if we don't, anything will look better then the car does now with clear coat flaking all over the roof and doors.

You only live once might as well give it s go. I see where u are coming from if i had a Toyota 2000GT.

[Z2TT]

Hi,

Am now blending in the other panel, working with acrillic. So I'm wondering if there is any blending thinners that come in pressure packs for use with acrylic?

Want to try avoid halo on clearcoat this time and probably blend in basecoat in too as colour is a bit off on the other panel.

Thanks.

[trd_st184]

Yeah not too sure whats the issue with these restoring and repairing a classic. Half the time these "projects" are likely to end up in the hands of someone who is going to take much better care of the car than the original owner, which is why they are needing restoration in the first place.

I personally think that if the correct safety protection is used and you are passionate about your car, then don't let anyone tell you otherwise. I've done some respraying in my garage and although I messed it up a bit due to a rushed job (taking your time is crucial) I learnt a heap from it.

If you leave everything to professionals you might as well buy a brand new car. I say if you have fun doing what you do, don't let anything discourage you. We are a club on here and we have Tech and Conversions sections to encourage people to give it a go and give advice.

pac - In the end its only a car, paint can always be stripped and resprayed. I personally couldn't justify $5000 for someone to respray a car drive in drive out.

To pay for the drive in drive out respray. That is 8 weeks of work on an average salary - $15.50 or 322 hours of work. Or 40.25 days of work...

[pac]

the point is what ever you spend on a "Classic" concerning the body you will always get your hard earned back without the headache of doing it yourself

you spend 4-5 thou on a "classic" and look after it, that value will remain for years