Exact same setup as almost every 80's/90's Toyota
ie, 24/2 (although as its on the crank and not the cam, its 12/2)
12 crank teeth, 2 cam teeth.
Hey all.
Firstly, I have searched, and couldn't find much of worth.
A) Does anyone have a 1uz wiring diagram? I've go a 1uz from a uzs131, whatever the hell that was..
B) Mine appears to have two cam angle sensors and a crank angle sensor. Does anyone know what these are exactly? What signal output they have? EG, 8 tooth crank single tooth cam or something like that?
It'd be really great if it was 4 tooth cam wheels and a single tooth crank, but I doubt that some what.
I've not been able to find it anywhere..
Exact same setup as almost every 80's/90's Toyota
ie, 24/2 (although as its on the crank and not the cam, its 12/2)
12 crank teeth, 2 cam teeth.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
What the hell? How does it divide 2 cam teeth across 12 crank teeth and get 8 cylinders?
And they are reluctor right? Not hall effect?
Just to kill any chance I had of getting it running on an aftermarket system.
What are you talking about? I know of Adaptronics and Microtechs fitted with no changesOriginally Posted by stradlater
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Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
likewise megasquirt (msextra.com), haltec, motec etc. will run from these sensors.
- the 2 cam sensors give you home location of TDC #1 (and if you ran waste-spark you could get away with tieing the two together)
- the 12 tooth wheel provides crank speed
... more than enough to run aftermarket ECU
the sensors will be VR not hall effect.
Yeah, I'll never know how they do it.
I tried to run the 1g dizzy with the standard triggers in the ig5 initially, and the reluctors are too shit for the ig5 to read them..
I'm just gonna get the dizzy modified straight from the get go and have a trigger put in it.
That's my problem.Originally Posted by thechuckster
The VR I used from the 1G caused me no end of grief with the reluctor adapter from Haltech.
Bugger, go HaltechSeriously, my Adaptronic had no issues at all using my 1GGTE dizzy.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
it sounds like the ECU or VR adaptor is shit rather than the sensors.
I used a simple VR interface for a 22RE dizzi VR sensor and it's extremely stable and reliable. The one thing i did do was check that the air-gap in the sensor was at the factory minimum.
Circuit here:
output goes high when the input crosses 0V as it swings from +V to -V. is about $15 worth of parts.
360/12 = 30Originally Posted by stradlater
So 30 degrees per crank tooth.
The ECU needs to know where the crank is in degrees, so thats how they do it.
They then work out when to fire with some tricky predictive timing.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
you'll find that they reference a home signal (one of the cam sensors) and then count trigger pulses from the 24 tooth wheel.
The actual trigger points are at around 60-70 degrees BTDC so the ECU has enough time to calculate the required ignition advance and dwell based on current rpm, map, temp, etc and then fire the ignition (as well as manage the injection event).
Gotcha.
Well thanks all for your input, but my options were try and get the haltech reluctor working, change ECU or get a simple hall effect setup built to suit my current ignition system.
I've gone for option C, so I'll let you all know how I go!
are you running this motor on gas? or just a non-factory ECU?
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