Removing a rusted bolt from a confined space

[greywolf]

Trying to get a leaking water pump off a 4-AC, two of the three mounting bolts are out as well as the two nuts securing the water pipe.

My problem is the bottom bolt has been in the direct path of the leak, and has rusted to a degree where a 12mm socket/ring spanner will no longer hold. Typically I'd just whack a 7/16 socket onto the bolt and worry about getting the bolt out afterwards. Only problem is there is SFA room for the socket, let alone swing room to get a hammer up there to whack a socket on. Being a 12mm, they aren't especially tight, but it does require a bit of torque to crack the nut (best ball park figure would be about 25-35nm ), so I'm not sure if a pair of multi-grips (at least the cheap shit pair I could only afford to buy ) would do the trick.

I do have lying around SOMEWHERE a crescent rapid wrench, was going to pull that out and see how I go,if I can find the damn thing. Pretty hesitant to try a shifter on it, it's not in real good nick this bolt and I reckon a shifter would round the fcsk out it.

Anyone got any amazing ideas ?

[blacktop]

Just get that Freeze It stuff, it comes in a aerosol can and can be bought from just about any auto shop.

Just spray on, and use multigrips or something to pull it out with

[greywolf]

Freeze It aye, I'll check it out next time I'm out.

Thanks mate.

Anyone else ?

[AAAAGZE]

cold chisel the head off, once that's off, pull the pump off, then extract remains of bolt.

rapid wrench not so good.

.

[greywolf]

the only problems is even after the pump is off, there still isn't that much clearance between the bolt and the firewall. Certainly not enough to get any sort of drill in there if I remember correctly. If I snap the head off using multi-grips/rapid wrench, I've got no choice but to use an extractor/easy out, but would like to avoid if possible.

I do know I can heat the area surrounding the bolt to help loosen it up too, more looking for some fucking amazingly brilliant way of mechanically removing the bolt I haven't thought of.

[mightyboy]

1) grab beer
2) soak the bastard bolt in as much wd40 you can get your hands on
3) drink beer
4) come back in 30mins to find the bolt somewhat looser
5) open second beer

[greywolf]

Unfortunately the bolt has rusted so much that a 12mm has no holy hope in hell of holding onto the bolt, even if it was finger tight. I'll give multi-grips ago, if I can find a pair.

[AAAAGZE]

after cold chisseling the head off as mentioned, and with the water pump removed, use a cam type stud extractor and it should come out fine.

[progkamol]

1) grab beer
2) soak the bastard bolt in as much wd40 you can get your hands on
3) drink beer
4) come back in 30mins to find the bolt somewhat looser
5) open second beer

Repeat from step 1 if the bolt is not loosen ... you'll find yourself drunk before you can get it off ... lol

In the panel shop I work in I once saw my workmate remove a rusted bolt from car body before ... he lock a viceclip on the bolt and whack the end of it with a hammer ... its ended up stripping the head of the bolt but it become loosen enough to take out ... that was for bumper brackets tho ...

[greywolf]

after cold chisseling the head off as mentioned, and with the water pump removed, use a cam type stud extractor and it should come out fine.

Cam stud extractor, brilliant ! If I end up breaking the head off, or cold chisling it, that's exactly what would do the trick.

Thanks AAAAGZE, +rep for you.

[AE35]

My suggestion would be to heat the bastard bolt up around the outside of it to get the metal around it to expand a little and then try and undo it

Give it a few taps with a hammer once the WD40 has soaked into it to loosen the rust off first though.

This was the process I used to use when I was a trades assistant to a diesel mechanic working on trucks with 30+ year old suspension bolts not to mention leaf spring packs...

[greywolf]

It's not so much that the bolts are tight, this bolt has been sitting beneath a leaking water pump for god knows how long. I fitted the 12 mm ring spanner to it, started to undo it, and the damn thing just slipped and now the 12mm spanner can freely swing around the bolt. 7/16 spanner doesn't quite fit, so only real way to remove it intact is to knock a cheap socket on to it and then undo. I think the cold chisel + stud extractor is the easiet way to go, the bolts them self can be undone using only one hand if the head is in good enough shape.

[MR22ZZ]

can you get vice grips over it?

I'd at least give that a go before you hit the head with a chisel.

[merc-blue]

i can think of 15 ways to do it.
A REAL bolt creaping chemical like the loctite freeze spray or rostoff ice would mean that it would be easy. but if you cant vice grip it out than you have issues.
I doubt that a GOOD 12mm spanner would slip.
you say they are not tight. a flare nut spanner or regular open spanner would do it.

Cheap tools take all the fun out of working on a car.
Trust me a single hex flare nut spanner wil get it out. try it before vice grips. becasue after you atempt vice grips there is no going back.

ALSO.
If you cold chissle off the head you can use vice grips on the remaining shaft to undo it. save you buying a stud extractor

[greywolf]

Biggest problem for me is that I don't have the money to go out and buy a vice-grip, poor till payday. However I DO have a flare-nut set, I'll give that a go before breaking out the chisel.

I currently have ONE good spanner, a Snap-On. Unfortunately haven't had the cash to start investing in good tools just yet, I'll get there soon enough.