R154 box noisy in gear? what has gone wrong?

[Cressid@]

Well, I am having a big headache about my gearbox at the moment. Had speedo issue before, but fixed (bought new speedo gear).

Some background info.
My car is 1JZ Cressida with R154 just about 180-190kw.
Took my car fishing other day towing a small boat, only about an hour drive, on the way home. Mostly up hill, I hear my box in making alot of noises in every gears without warning.
I thought it could be the oil, but I changed oil today to REd light superlight weigh shock proof (omg that sht cost an arm ). And it is still making noise, grinding noise.

At stationary and in Neutral, the noise is there but soft. If I put it in gear and clutch down, noise is gone. But once the car moving and the noise is getting louder as the rev goes up.

I know its a stab in the dark but I know Toymoders were heaps good with these things.
Does anyone know what might be the problem? or atleast narrowing it down so I know what problems I am facing with?
Thrust washer? Syndcrone? Gears? or clutch? etc?
I have no knowledge at all with gearbox. So any helps would be great.

THANKS>>>>

[Kedderz]

spigot or throw out bearing I would say mate if the clutch depress gets rid of the noise, I have the same in my starlet atm and it needs to be replaced. its not an expensive part but if you dont do it yourself it will cost $300 or so in labour.

[YLD-16L]

spigot or throw out bearing I would say mate if the clutch depress gets rid of the noise,

What you said makes no sense. You depress the clutch and then the throw out bearing and spigot bearing are spinning i.e. makes noise if they are stuffed, release the clutch and the throwout bearing and spigot bearing stop spinning i.e. no noise becuase they are stationary.

Internet diagnosis is hard but from your symptoms list it sounds like it'll be a bearing issue in the gearbox.

[wilbo666]

spigot or throw out bearing I would say mate if the clutch depress gets rid of the noise...

The spigot bearing should only spin (if functioning correctly takai ) when the clutch pedal is IN. (If the noise was there when the clutch pedal was depressed then it could be the spigot bearing, however this is the opposite of what he has described ).

Again in a conventional push type clutch, (most common type of clutch) the throwout bearing only spins (if functioning correctly takai ) when the clutch pedal is engaged. i.e. noise when clutch pedal pressed would be expected (same as for spigot bearing).

However as it does have a pull type clutch! (R154) I think (I'm not 100% sure, and haven't had a chance to check) that the throwout bearing may spin all the time, and spin faster as engine RPM increases?...

Cheers
Wilbo

[YLD-16L]

They are pull type Wilbo unless it's got pull to push conversion for a multi-plate etc.

Even if it's still pull type the bearing doesn't remain in constant contact with the diaphragm, or shouldn't any way.

[wilbo666]

They are pull type Wilbo unless it's got pull to push conversion for a multi-plate etc.

Yep, know they are pull type stock (that was a statement), but you raise a very good point that it could have a non factory push type clutch and associated converter mechanism

Even if it's still pull type the bearing doesn't remain in constant contact with the diaphragm, or shouldn't any way.

This is what I wasn't sure about

At some stage for my own interest I will check the pull type R154 clutch in the shed

Cheers
Wilbo

[Cressid@]

It is just a standard clutch with the clutch fork looks like a Y shape.
I think it is Pull type! cos it pulls the pressure plate back when the clutch is depress.
(I installed them 14 months ago).

I drained the oil and there is no gold bits in the oil, so it is safe to say sync still good?
what symptons if thrust washer is faulty?
I am able to shift into gears smoothly every gears.
My nuts are on the bearings, because bad bearing causes noises?
These box are known for its strength, how can towing and uphill could have kill it? hmmm.
was not abusing it at all.

[wilbo666]

Also from memory 'Red line superlight weigh shock proof ' isn't the right grade of oil...

I think it has been reported to cause syncro glazing.... there was a thread on it by blacksupra if I recall

Cheers
Wilbo

["Z" UTE]

Did you tow uphill in 5th gear? If so your 1st gear, reverse gear layshaft bearing is Kaput!

Common problem when towing anything uphill with a Toyota 5 speed box.


cheers Chuck.

[Cressid@]

Just took my gf home, first 5 min driving when it was cold, the noise is almost non, very hard to hear through my exhaust. But it gets louder and very noticeable when it is warm up about 15min later.

First I had Mobile synthetic 75w90 gearbox oil in there, and I thought it doesnt do well in hot and towing conditions that is why I swapped to Redline, many people raised about it!

Shifting gears all normal and performance wise, no lose at all.

Did you tow uphill in 5th gear? If so your 1st gear, reverse gear layshaft bearing is Kaput!

Common problem when towing anything uphill with a Toyota 5 speed box.


cheers Chuck.

I was in 3rd or 4th gear for about 10 min up and down the hill.
I will probably rolling backward if i was in 5th

[Cressid@]

Also from memory 'Red line superlight weigh shock proof ' isn't the right grade of oil...

I think it has been reported to cause syncro glazing.... there was a thread on it by blacksupra if I recall

Cheers
Wilbo

I researched alot about redline and R154. Never heard anything bad about using it? The grade on the Redline Superlight is 75W90 as recommended for R154.

Maybe the RED LINE LIGHT weigh shock proof you are refering to? because that is graded at 70W140.

[wilbo666]

Yep, looks like you are right

I just recall some hoo haa, about red line oils and R154, It didn't effect me so I didn't take too much notice...

This thread ---> http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10642

Cheers
Wilbo

[JZA70 R]

Also from memory 'Red line superlight weigh shock proof ' isn't the right grade of oil...

I think it has been reported to cause syncro glazing.... there was a thread on it by blacksupra if I recall

Cheers
Wilbo

Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil is "not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions"... Most as in not all which means there are some syncromesh gearboxes that it IS recommended for. One of those gearboxes is obviously the R154 since thousands upon thousands of people use the shit and are STOKED with its performance.

One poor bloke's R154 is diagnosed with glazed syncro's, the mechanic blames it on the oil (redline l/w), he posts it up on toymods and now its omg dont buy redline its evil.

So sad.

Heres the thread, feel free to have another read
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=r154+redline

[wilbo666]

JZA70 R, did you see my reply above yours?

Yep, looks like you are right

I just recall some hoo haa, about red line oils and R154, It didn't effect me so I didn't take too much notice...

This thread ---> http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10642

Cheers
Wilbo

You'll also notice that I said 'from memory'. I didn't claim it absolutely

Also from memory

I also said "I think"... not "I KNOW" or similar

I think it has been reported to cause syncro glazing

By all means fire up at me tho

Here are my post, feel free to have another read
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...96&postcount=8
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...1&postcount=12

All I was attempting to do was bring to light that the issue may have been related to the red line oil... In this case it turns out that Cressid@ appears to have done his research

Cheers
Wilbo

[Cressid@]

Cheers Wilbo, its all good.
Appreciated for the inputs, atleast I know oil was not the caused the problem.

But how do you explain it get noisier when oil gets warm?
It is almost how it should be when it is cold.