a GOOD electronic boost control

[timbosaurus]

Sell me that built 1g

Oh, the one that still needs the cams to be repaired, the block to be machined, the bottom end to be balanced, a whole new gasket kit, a set of injectors, a new ECU, custom plenum, full wiring loom, new clutch kit and complete reassembly...

Yeah, it's nearly finished

[Kedderz]

well i have injectors, ecu, custom plenum, full wiring loom, clutch.....

[YLD-16L]

Well, you'd never really "compare" them... but I was trying to decide whether to go the cheap option, or the easy option

I first saw the EBC-R in the latest FF&R magazine (honestly, I only bought it because it's jam packed with old 'yotas ) and this is what the ad said...

While the humble bleed tap is more often than not adequate for mild street cars, there are few applications that won't benefit from the fitment of a high quality electronic boost controller such as this item from HDI.

Offering rock-solid boost control, reliabilty and in-cabin adjustment, there is little argument that an electronic controller is alway better than a mechanical one, but until now price has always been a limiting factor.

Entering on cue is the HDI EBC-R, which has been designed with flexibility, strength, value and simplicity in mind. It features a high quality Motorola pressure sensor, 100psi approved solenoid and is capable of controlling boost up to 30psi above atmospheric pressure - not bad at all for just $180. Isn't it time you upgraded your boost controller?



This implies it does reference boost.

I'm guessing (hoping) it does exactly what the eboost2 does ie: senses MAP and leaves the solenoid closed until it gets very close to the desired pressure. Maybe using some sort of closed looped control system to try and prevent overshoot.

It just doesn't have the pretty pushbuttons or pressure display.

It's interesting that none of the literature on the EBC-R mentions closed loop control, you'd think if it could do it then it would be one of the key points they mention?

This thread got me thinking a bit more about EBC's and I have thought of another thing I am not happy with on the Gizzmo I have, the fact that the peak target boost stored in its memory and displayed when you scroll through the boost settings is what ever boost level is sees for more than 0.5 seconds. This is fine 95% of the time but on the odd occassion when you get a spike in boost it then "remembers" that and it's the new target boost level. Kind of annoying.

I've been thinking of trying out another EBC for comparison and a little research over the last few nights has been interesting. Only seems that a couple of the EBCs have the ability for the user to select an actual target boost level rather than a duty cycle or %. Nothing wrong with duty cycle or % based selection provided it is closed loop boost referenced once the desired boost level is acheived.

I couldn't see anything in the eboost 2 literature stating the unit has closed loop control, instead it seems to have a lot of ability to configure correction factors to correct unstable boost curves. Is this really the case?? If it is it would seem you could have unreal control provided you used the boost per gear feature. Otherwise though won't you only end up with an ideal curve under a specific situation / load?? i.e. you set up a perfect boost curve under load in 4th on the dyno and that's not really going to require the same corrections as 1st or 2nd gear under relatively light load full throttle???

The Blitz ID3 looks to be pretty good, has closed loop control and would appear to be easy to setup. I've seen these in action and it worked well on a car running 22psi. Pretty expensive though.

The greddy profec 2 spec B looks ok, not sure if it's true closed loop control though as you need to play around with a few things to attain stable boost in some situations i.e if you have a falling boost curve with increasing rpm.

The HDI-SBC-D looks pretty good for the money, has closed loop control and a temperature compensating motorola map sensor. At about half the price of most with closed loop control (with a gauge) and about a third the price without the gauge it looks good on paper........

The HDI EBC-R as discussed above looks pretty good for the price also but no mention in the specs of closed loop control even though it has an inbuilt map sensor and no gauge or display does give the impression it would reference boost in same way to provide its regulation.

It's very fkn hard to find objective info on EBC's as plenty are installed and setup by half-wits and plenty more people talk up "rock solid boost control" in one sentence and then state the thing starts with a peak of 17 and drops to 15psi. Magazine articles are generally bias toward those who provide advertising dollars and not much info on decent sites like this is about EBC's.

Got any useful input or feedback on a unit you have USED YOUR SELF then please discuss......

EDIT: I didn't mention the Gizzmo IBC's as I have one on the car at the moment. I think if they enabled you to adjust the duty cycle, run the car to acheive the boost for that duty cycle and then if you're happy SELECT that as the target boost level then they'd be near on perfect for the price. The fact that it then selects a new boost level if it sees a higher value is just annoying.

[c2888]

If it's creeping up to a higher boost then you have to lower the duty cycle till you get the maximum that you want. Tedious I know, but as a slight bonus you get to go 'testing'
It took a good hour to setup the gizzmo in the Starlet to an acceptable level, it kept going up like you described.

A thread I found when i was researching to buy our gizzmo unit.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...c-t229928.html

I know it's a skyliner forum, but as YLD said, its hard to find honest results that have visual proof.

[Dieseltrain]

Running the Greddy Profec B spec 2 unit and its great, easy to adjust on the fly for pinpoint boost levels and a great price! Can be had for under $400.

[YLD-16L]

If it's creeping up to a higher boost then you have to lower the duty cycle till you get the maximum that you want. Tedious I know, but as a slight bonus you get to go 'testing'
It took a good hour to setup the gizzmo in the Starlet to an acceptable level, it kept going up like you described.

A thread I found when i was researching to buy our gizzmo unit.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...c-t229928.html

I know it's a skyliner forum, but as YLD said, its hard to find honest results that have visual proof.

Not quite sure I explained it well enough, it's not a setup issue, nor is it creep.

I'll clarify what is happening, I set the duty cycle, run it through a few WOT throttle runs to ascertain it's the boost level I want on that setting. Run it through a few more times in different gears etc to ensure it's set correctly - All good so far.

It can then happily work exactly as you'd expect for a long time under normal street driving conditions (eg nothing too taxing for any EBC to control).

Then you do something like sayyyyyy rip a skid in first then snap second and it'll spike 1.5psi above the set level, no biggie, no controller is going to prevent that and the Gizzmo does a fkn good job of keeping the spike so low under such retarded conditions. But then the problem is the bloody thing then "remembers" that spike and that's the new target boost level.

I hope that explains why it's not an adjustment issue . It's an issue they could easily resolve by making the peak target boost a selectable value once the correct duty cycle is established.

I think super responsive BB turbos being taken from vacuum to XXpsi in a matter of milliseconds is a situation most controllers will have trouble with, some deal with it better than others though from what I have seen. A small spike of a psi or less over is more than acceptable control, making that the new target boost level is not acceptable.

Cheers for the link.


Dieseltrain, thanks for the input.

[YLD-16L]

That SAU thread reminded me of the datalogs I did after Christmas and found that in a 3rd gear run I could decrease the time taken to pass through 2500rpm to 6500rpm by 0.9 seconds just by increasing the gain to the highest useable value. Might not sound like much to some but that 0.9 second is removed from a 2.9 second time period Great for 3rd and 4th gear and imprerssive on the dyno but absolutely shite for first and second gear as it will spike quite badly. Boost by gear would be great to truly utilise the gain to its full potential

Are you using the Gizzmo IBC or MS-IBC c2888??

[YLD-16L]

Then you do something like sayyyyyy rip a skid in first then snap second and it'll spike 1.5psi above the set level, no biggie, no controller is going to prevent that and the Gizzmo does a fkn good job of keeping the spike so low under such retarded conditions. But then the problem is the bloody thing then "remembers" that spike and that's the new target boost level.

Hhhmmm just read through the manual for the MS-IBC and damn it looks incredibly good for the price ($299) AND it caters to setups like mine with a spike stop function.

I'll grab one next week and do a comparison with my current regular IBC model.

Like I said, the current IBC keeps me happy 95% or more of the time (probably more like 98% of the time as I rarely do skids), it looks like the MS-IBC should keep me happy 100% of the time. We'll see.

[1jz68u]

i have a Apexi AVC-R on the supra (old i know) but works quite well. should be pretty cheap 2nd hand now i imagine, lots of features and info.


had a blitz dual SBC on the celica, worked like a charm, no dramas at all.
put it on the 1J cressy, it just shat itself and did nothing, so used a bleed valve instead.

[timbosaurus]

To me it looks like the EBC-R and the MS-IBC are the first in a new generation in reasonably priced closed loop controllers... and it's about time.

They're not complex, they don't use many parts, and apart from the fact that people were paying it, i've got no idea how turbosmart could justify near on $800 for the e-boost 2!

Yeah, it's a nice bit of gear, but it does not have more than $50 of componente...

[oldcorollas]

is anyone using a Blitz SBC-ID ??
http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html
like these? http://www.alamomotorsports.com/blitz/sbcid.html

i saw a II and a III at autobacs second hand store on the weekend...

[YLD-16L]

is anyone using a Blitz SBC-ID ??
http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html
like these? http://www.alamomotorsports.com/blitz/sbcid.html

i saw a II and a III at autobacs second hand store on the weekend...

I've played with a III, very nice bit of gear.

[oldcorollas]

would you go with one of those over the previous dual SBC?
ie, Dual SBC spec-R = 36K yen
SBC i-D spec R = 43K yen

both prolly have same solenoids...

and compared to MS-IBC?

[JustenGT8]

Anyone tried the new HDi EBC-R yet?

Priced right if it's a good as the reviews suggest?

[timbosaurus]

I'm planning on getting one Justen, just need to remember to call the mob during business hours.

Can't find any online (except one site, but i think they are confusing the names...), so have to call the number in the FF&R ad.

It looks like it will suit me, as I already have a nice gauge. I just need something discreet to keep the gates shut until max boost level, then use closed loop PWM to keep it there (hopefully if starts to close the gate again as boost drops off at higher RPM).