Toyota calipers with integrated handbrake mechanism

[YLD-16L]

Hi all,

Does anyone have a manual for an AE82/AE92/AW11/SW20 with the info on the method for resetting the caliper piston on the rear calipers when new pads are installed?

I understand that you use the caliper tool to wind the piston back in but I remember vaguely something about winding the piston a 1/4 of a turn or so outward (anticlockwise) past the point you will be setting it at then wind it back (clockwise) to the correct position to align the groove in the piston with the notch on the pad.

Thanks in advance for any info supplied.

[Cuzzo]

When i did my ae82. I wound it in all the way, then i lined up the notch on the piston with the indicator on the caliper.

Is there a line or notch on the caliper ? I cant remember.. so yes a manual would help

[YLD-16L]

Yes, there is a notch on the caliper to line up the piston (which also lines up with the notch on the pad).

I think it's just additional info like the 1/4 back turn or any other Toyota specific trickery that might need doing that I need to know about. Maybe there is no other tips and it's as straight forward as it appears?

[MR22ZZ]

I just wound it back enough that I could get the piston back over the new pads.
Any more seemed like wasted effort.

Press the brakes a few times then pull the hand brake a few times and it's all set.

I'll have a look see in the manual though and post up the relevant pics.
EDIT: thought I had the manual on my laptop, but it will have to wait until I get home.

[YLD-16L]

I just wound it back enough that I could get the piston back over the new pads.
Any more seemed like wasted effort.

Press the brakes a few times then pull the hand brake a few times and it's all set.

Well that concurs with what I planned to do so that's good.

[Hiro]

I just wound it back enough that I could get the piston back over the new pads.
Any more seemed like wasted effort.

Press the brakes a few times then pull the hand brake a few times and it's all set.

I'll have a look see in the manual though and post up the relevant pics.
EDIT: thought I had the manual on my laptop, but it will have to wait until I get home.

Ditto for when I put the Greenstuffs on the AE102 (they have the handbrake pushing on the piston too). From what I was told, turning clockwise is not something you want to do, especially if the piston is a long way out, because you could pull the piston off the threaded section for the handbrake, requiring you to pull the whole caliper apart.

[MR22ZZ]

just remember to get the slots on the piston to line up with the tabs on the backing of the pads, if you are out too far my just a couple of mm then it's 180 degrees more winding.

And yes, only ever wind them in.

[YLD-16L]

My calipers are rebuilt with all new internals and parts so I have wound them out to disassemble and wound them in to reassemble and I can tell you that they wind out a long way before they come off the threaded rod in the caliper.

In normal service though with a brake pad change there would be no need to wind the piston out.

[LeeRoy]

Shane ill have a look later tonight for you in my Gregory's manual and post up what it says to do.

[Hiro]

My calipers are rebuilt with all new internals and parts so I have wound them out to disassemble and wound them in to reassemble and I can tell you that they wind out a long way before they come off the threaded rod in the caliper.

If you're pads are _really_ worn (when I did the Greenstuffs the pads I removed were the ORIGINAL factory brake pads, with 290,000km on them), the piston is pushed out a fair way, and this can mean only a small amount of turning is required to lift it off the thread.

[LeeRoy]

Remove caliper as per usual and remove some of the fluid in the res.

Locate the nose of a pair of long nosed pliers into the recesses of the piston. Rotate the piston clockwise while pushing on the pliers until the piston body is retracted fully into the caliper body.

Align a recess in the piston with the lug on the rear of the inner brake pad and rotate the caliper housing until it is correctly positioned over the brake pads and the anchor plate

Then just reassemble as per usual brake pad change procedure.

A description on the Handbrake setup:

The rear disc brakes are operated by calipers, which are equipped with an integral handbrake mechanism consisting of a threaded shaft screwed onto the center of the caliper piston. The mechanism is self adjusting by turning the shaft out of the piston when the footbrake is applied. When the handbrake is applied a lever rotates the shaft, forcing the piston out and clamping the pads to the disc.

[20v_KE25]

Before you start to wind the piston in start with backing of the hand brake cable adjustment all the way and make sure that the short lever on the caliper is resting on the stop pin.
Then screw the piston in all the way clock ways cut outs horizontal so that the pins on pads will fit, re-assemble caliper than pump the brake pedal slowly about dozen times. After that adjust your hand brake cable. Same procedure is used to adjust your hand brake when it needs to be re adjusted all ways back of adjustment first than pump brake pedal firmly finally adjust cable.

[Moppitt]

Just as an aside, I had a bunch of issues because I wasn't backing the cable off far enough before the pumping (brakes) and pulling (handbrake) process. Also make sure to leave a good amount of slack in the cable (I have to go with ~3 - 4 clicks on my ae82) before there is any handbrake engagement as if its too tight it works the calipers out of adjustment and stops functioning. Trivial details are always the killers.
Accord Euros are the same process and a bit of a pita because adjusting the cable is a console out job.

A little more complex than the minis I worked on (that were just hold brake pedal down, pull on hand brake, release pedal, release handbrake... done.)