splitting longchamps?

**RAd28** · 03-11-2008, 09:50 PM

Hey all,

got a set of longchamps here that are in desperate need of a good polish, and a set of new bolts, is there anything i should look out for before splitting them? i can only think of the obvious one, i.e. letting the tyres down first...

will i have any issues putting everything back together? i'm sure i read somewhere that they're a 3 with the rim halves welded together so effectively a 2 piece... so the rim halves won't need to be aligned... what about the rim to centre? and what about torque in the bolts? and ideas?

Cheers

**Golberg** · 03-11-2008, 09:55 PM

Are these XR4's by any chance?

Because if they are, you'll soon find they are actually welded together

**wilbo666** · 03-11-2008, 11:55 PM

Assuming they aren't welded together...

You may have issues getting the tyre out of the rim bead to take them apart!

I would also make each section so one can line them up as they are.

Cheers
Wilbo

**o_man_ra23** · 04-11-2008, 05:01 PM

where is your polishing concern?? If the only challenge you are facing is where the bolts hold it together, I would deflate the tyres, remove one bolt, polish around, re-install, remove next bolt, etc etc. Have seen a nice set of 10" wide simmons done like that on a Vette, worked a treat.

**RAd28** · 04-11-2008, 05:08 PM

Golberg - Yeah, XR4's... you say welded together, as in centre is welded to the rim? if that's the case, then cool... i can live with that...

Wilbo - I'm not too concerned about breaking the bead... just trying to polish them up...

Owen - Yeah, that's it pretty much... I was planing on doing that exactly, just wanted to check first... wasn't sure if there was any harm in undoing them like that, or if there was a recommended pattern etc to prevent warping the rim... i don't wanna dive in and find i've buckled them...

**Golberg** · 04-11-2008, 05:48 PM

I haven't myself checked any XR4's, but I have heard now from 4 people that the centre is in fact actually welded to outer rim. You should still be able to replace the bolts though.

**o_man_ra23** · 05-11-2008, 08:54 AM

There should be enough bolts that one missing will not reduce the spot pressure on the join to a point where it will be damaged when the tyre is deflated. Cmon, though you was a gingerbeer??

**RAd28** · 05-11-2008, 11:14 PM

tyre pressure wasn't the concern i had, it was just bolt torque/tightening sequence.. you can warp a cylinder head with incorrect tension sequence (and no tyre pressure

), i've no idea how the wheels are made, i assume there's gotta be some correct method for assembly...

**o_man_ra23** · 06-11-2008, 08:03 AM

There is... if the wheel is not already under tension. That method is usually send it to the manufacturer (for Simmons it is). BUT, just like with a cylinder head, when the metal is at rest, you can change out one bolt at a time if you don't disturb the others. It's even better on a wheel because there are more bolts per square unit area of mating surface, so removal of one bolt has even less of an impact overall. So long as you torque the bolt back up to spec after you are done, and before you remove the next bolt, there is no problem. If you are concerned about settling, then do every second or third bolt and go around the wheel a couple of times.