R154 Clutch Adjustment Now with pics

[Lambolica]

I have an issue with an R154 Clutch pedal, the release point is right up the top of the pedal travel to the point that now the clutch is wearing down, the clutch slips as the car comes on boost if I don't "drop" the clutch on gear changes (ie clutch not fully engaging.

Where are the points of adjustment, and how can I get the release point further down the pedal travel.

There is more issues here but I want to make sure the basic stupid question is out of the way first.

It is an MA70 converted to JZA70 using JZA70 1/2 cut

Cheers
Simon

[Dale]

You can adjust it at the clutch pedal, where the pushrod comes through from the clutch master cylinder. Take out the split pin and the rod that connects it to the clutch pedal, crack the nut that locks it together, then wind the outer bit in further - might take a bit of trial and error to get it adjusted right, so check it before locking it with the 2nd nut again

Once you stick your head under there you'll see what I mean, it's pretty simple

[Lambolica]

OK I'll look at that at the next break in the rain,

Next question, at the slave cylinder, when released, how close to the slave should the fork arm be? ie when released, is any of the slave piston sticking out or is it fully compressed in?

Sorry for all the random questions but there is somthing dodgy here, and I don't have a clue on what the factory set up is.

Cheers
Simon

[Lambolica]

You can adjust it at the clutch pedal, where the pushrod comes through from the clutch master cylinder. Take out the split pin and the rod that connects it to the clutch pedal, crack the nut that locks it together, then wind the outer bit in further - might take a bit of trial and error to get it adjusted right, so check it before locking it with the 2nd nut again

Once you stick your head under there you'll see what I mean, it's pretty simple

OK had a look and I understand what you say but I can't see how this changes the release point, it appears to just move the pedal up and down so the release is still right at the top?!?

Cheers
Simon

[Lambolica]

OK...

A Break in the weather let me get it up in the air.... This is the slave fork setup, This just doesn't look factory and I thing is the cause of the problems.

Can anyone shead light on this? The bracket that the slave is bolted to looks to be custom, and the fork just looks like a lump of metal? Not sure if this is correct or not.

I would assume that there would be more ability in a factory setup for the fork to move more to the left (of pic) so the release would be further down the pedal travel



Cheers
Simon

[DrNick]

That slave setup looks funny to me. I was under the impression that the A70 clutch setup was a pull clutch so the slave should be on the other side and the fork would not be sticking out of the box like that. Although I'm only going from limited firsthand knowledge of these.

I just happened to have mine up on the hoist so here is what a stock (stockish) setup looks like



There is no adjustment on the slave cylinder end (unless you change the pushrod), the adjustment is just on the threaded rod on the master cylinder as was mentioned above.

[forey]

my engage point is also right at the top, and need to adjust it pretty badly ( r154 brass button)

[The Real Roadrunner]

Lambo, its an after market converter that is setup to make it a push type clutch rather than the factory pull-type clutch.

the way that fork is sitting tells me 1 of 3 things is going on.

1. the fork has been spaced out from the box (unlikely cause i believe they run a pin thru the fork which is non adjustable)
2. the wrong carrier bearing has been used which is pushing the fork too far back and still holding the clutch slightly dis-engaged (even more unlikely but still just as possible)
3. the clutch plate/s are so badly worn that the fingers on the diaghram are pushing the carrier bearing and fork assy so far back that its hitting the slave cylinder.

to be honest i believe No3 to be the most likely culprit as it has all the symptoms.
1 slipping on boost = not enough clamp force, which is generally caused by the diaphram not being able to apply pressure to a worn out disc/driveplate/flywheel combo.
2. high pedal = mis adjusted maso or a worn out clutch pushing the slave too far back.
3. Ummm, pics telling me something is really fubared.

is it a super single or twinplate clutch thats in the car? easy to diagnose when you put your foot on the clutch it will sound like stuff wants to fall out of the gearbox.

The only other thing that comes to mind is somebody was a tightarse and decided to put an NA2jz style push-type clutch in it. it will probly be the wrong height to the fingers when compressed and i doubt it would be built with the clamping force required to hold the torque.

good luck with your quest

cheers
linden

Edit: just looked at the pic again and it seems to have an anodised or painted pink cover on the clutch (just above the fork) so its probly (99% sure) an aftermarket clutch.

[Lambolica]

Linden

Your diagnosis #3 appears to be on the money.

When we origonally converted the engine over the 1/2 cut had an OS Giken twin plate in it. for what ever reason when it was worn out an extream clutch was put in. I'm not a fan of the shop that has been doing the work on this car as nothing is done right first time.

What are the options here?
Can I slot the holes in the bracket to effectively move the slave back a few mm?

Should the OSGiken go back in.

clutch is pretty much rooted after 10,000km or so. the engine is more or less stock (170-180rwkw) so not a powerhouse by any standard.

Cheers
Simon

[Dale]

OK had a look and I understand what you say but I can't see how this changes the release point, it appears to just move the pedal up and down so the release is still right at the top?!?

Cheers
Simon

It adjusts the pushrod length of the master cylinder and thus can move the release up/down a little.

The pushrod in the slave cylinder looks to be sitting pretty tight, with the pedal released it should ideally only be just captive.

Looking at the pics I'd have to say roadrunner is right on the money.

As for what you should do, is the OSGiken clutch a push or a pull type clutch? If it were me I'd want it running a pull type clutch as it's meant to have

[Lambolica]

Dale, I'd say they used this setup that was made for the OSGiken and made it work for the new clutch.

IIRC the They Couldn't find parts for the OSGiken and it was ditched.

If I slot the holes in the custom braket a few mm to move the slave back will that be a temp fix?

Cheers
Simon

[The Real Roadrunner]

Id probly rebuild the OS as they are a great clutch, not hard to drive in traffic and will hold whatever amount of powers you want later.

alternatively you could source a new exedy or extreme clutch (if it is actually stuffed, it might not be) and setup the carrier bearing height correctly for it to work with the proper amount of travel.

Its all budget dependant really, how much does he want to spend fixing it?

as ive always said "i'd rather spend more money to do it once than spend a heap more doing it 3 times".

cheers
linden

PS, Pull type clutches do work well (in certain circumstances) but fook me they are a pain in the arse to work with

[The Real Roadrunner]

IIRC the They Couldn't find parts for the OSGiken and it was ditched.

If I slot the holes in the custom braket a few mm to move the slave back will that be a temp fix?

Cheers
Simon

They mustn't have looked hard, Otomoto are the dealer in aus.

Ummm, yes but its not the right way to fix your problem thus i wouldn't recommend it.

[Lambolica]

Otomoto was where the issues were RE the lack of parts (at the time)

By Temp fix I mean 1-2 months until he can sort the OS again.

Cheers
Simon

[Lambolica]

Actually Linden what should it cost to get the OS rebuilt? Ballpark?

Cheers
Simon