Hard to tell with little info. but if the car isn't starting at all, I would be checking your cam and crank sensor wiring first.
Has anybody had the opportunity of installing/working with one of these in a JZZ30 or even a with 1JZ as a standalone ECU?
Is there anything you can share about your experiences?
I'm currently at the stage of configuring a base tune to get the car at least running but experiencing some timing issues. The injectors and ignitors are both wired in firing order but something just isn't right.
Any input is appreciated.
Hard to tell with little info. but if the car isn't starting at all, I would be checking your cam and crank sensor wiring first.
I know it's a little vague, I was just hoping that somebody could share their experience if any at all.
I'll look into it further today![]()
I'm with Chris... most non-starting issues with aftermarket ECU 1js are related to incorrect cam/crank sensor wiring (particularly on microtechs, whose wiring diagrams were wrong)
Yeah, that's a good point. But before I investigate that I want to confirm that I've got the igniters wired up correctly.
Below I've got the diagram of the igniter connection, but I'm not sure which way it's showing. Can anybody confirm if the following is labelled correctly and from which side it's been shown? As in, is the pinout from the perspective of the ignitor (looking at the loom plug) or is it from the loom side (looking at the plug on igniter).
Pin 1 = Igniter 1
Pin 2 = Igniter 2
Pin 3 = Igniter 3
Pin 9 = Igniter 4
Pin 8 = Igniter 5
Pin 7 = Igniter 6
i don't know if you meant this in your original post but the ems injectors and ignitors need to be wired up according to their firing order so 153624 needs to be wired to 123456 on your 6860 in that order.
Yeah I know they have to be, I'm just hoping that I've got them wired up the right way around in firing order.Originally Posted by 87lux
i haven't wired one up yet but i was also told that only one of the cam sensors are used. do you know if you have the right one hooked up.
any details as to this bodge disgram fuckup?Originally Posted by Draven
Yeah the right cam sensor is wired up correctly, it was triple checked today. I need to determine if the igniters are wired up correctly before I proceed with anything, because I've got a feeling they may be wrong. Although, this is the 4th time the igniters have been wired up due to sheer confusion, but I reckon they're finally right after a whole day of looking over everything - I still need to be sure though.Originally Posted by 87lux
eldaro: all the colours are wrong on the diagram. There are only 6 wires to work out though and you only use 4 of them so just mix and match until it works.
Can't help re the igniter wiring sorry mate.
No worries Chris, thanks mate.
I've got a 8860 in my T-18 and a lot of timing issues are caused by EMI from old coils. Be very sure all trigger and sync wires are correctly/properly shielded. Does the engine start/idle? Also what did you use as the base map?
With my experience, be VERY careful the the base map EMS loads on the ECU as your engine would most likely not start with it (even if EMS swear it will start "any" engine). Set your injection arrangement to MultiPoint 360, from memory all Toyota sensors are magnetic so the trigger and sync have to be Falling (-). Also depending on the coils you are using, you need to set the Dwell time carefully, most bosch performance coils require ~4.5ms. Make sure you have only one load source selected.
Another snag people run into is in relation to the Injector time scale, as this determines the longest period that the injector can be open (directly related to the max RPM for the map). The scale WILL re-adjust your map so be careful when changing it, and the documentation should help you with an appropriate value (im running 30). Also run your fuel trim at 100% at first and adjust to suit.
This is where I will say, if you dont have a wide band ox sensor, stop and buy one as if you are lucky it will take you a long time to get it running. Also by having one you can then also utilise the closed loop lambda and tune analyser!
I hope this helps you a little.
Blake
Last edited by pheonix; 15-04-2009 at 01:15 AM.
5 years in the making, go to T-18's
Thanks for your post, Blake.
Everything regarding the EMS settings matches up. I guess I'll take another look at the cam sensor. I'll post updates, if any...
Leave the wiring from ignitor to coils alone, just connect your ECU outputs to corresponding inputs on Ignitor as seen above.
Check on 4 pin plus that:
Pin 2 has constant +12v even when cranking, and Pin 4 has a solid earth.
Pin 1 is a tacho output (i assume the EMS also has one so you can forget this)
Pin 3 is a check connector, dont worry about this only required by facotry ecu.
Also check that each coil has a solid +12v supply as well as good earth.
EDIT: Just saw you diag above, which looks like a plug side diag where as this is the ignitor side diag, meaning your diag above is mirrored, so dont think it is incorrect![]()
Old School: 1971 Datsun 1200 Deluxe Coupe all original... yep factory twin cam turbo
Daily: 2006 Hilux Dual Cab D4D 4WD
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