Grinding down a caliper(toyota aristo)

[woggin]

Caliper fouls on the rim, New bendix pads with RDA slotted rotors.
19x8+35 Koya Octane rims, heres my options:

Car is a Toyota Aristo, which runs 2/1 supra set-up (brakes are identical)

run a spacer (tried 8mm) but there isnt enough thread, nuts only go on 1 turn
running a spacer also causes the rims to stick past the guards, so that wont work
ill need longer wheel studs to run the 8mm spacers

run a 5mm spacer, still wont be enough thread, not sure if there'll be enough clearance!

Run different rims (std Supra/Aristo rims) problem with this, itll look shit, but will solve problems, expensive though

Find the same rims with higher offset would also work, but as above, very expensive

Then this is my final option.....on the caliper face(outside) there is a 'hump' which is about 2mm or so higher than the rest of the caliper, if i was to grind this down, i might have enough space, but i'd still like to run a 1-2mm spacer to allow for flex of the components.

Problems with this......Not sure if it'll work because i dont know how much the foul is......its probably illegal, but so is a spacer and it sticking out the guard(the rim)

OR sell the car!!(tempting because any fix will be time consuming and expensive)

OR leave it with the mixed pads (read below) which i dont see much of an issue with!

the caliper is really thick, so i dont see an issue takin of the 2mm or so, thoughts??? options?? help??

any advice would be highly appreciated.

at the moment i have the bendix pads on the inside face of the new slotted rotor, with the old TRD pad outside, which gives 3mm clearance or so from the caliper to the rim!!

[Dale]

So you're running a mix of 50% new and 50% old pads? That's... not good.

Post some pics of the caliper and where you are thinking about grinding, sounds like new rims are probably going to be the best option tbh. Ideally you want a couple of mm clearance at a minimum, under heaving braking the rim will start hitting it otherwise. If you run new pads is it gonna affect it? Allow for that in any solution you consider

[30psi 4agte]

yep........ will need some pics to see what can and cant be done

[Sciflyer]

Pics of caliper/wheel?

Kinda surprised your having clearance issues with the stock 2-pots. The best solution is to get wheels that fit. If you really dont want to do that then really the only other option is to get hubcentric spacers and studs.

I run Celsior 4-pot calipers on my daily and compared to the stock 2-pots they are huge, i needed a 20mm spacer/stud kit (got it off ebay) to get enough clearance. Not ideal but i didnt want to change wheels.

[pandaah]

at the moment i have the bendix pads on the inside face of the new slotted rotor, with the old TRD pad outside, which gives 3mm clearance or so from the caliper to the rim!!

no offence, but thats the dodgiest thing ive heard for a long time..... get the right rims, and yeh it might cost abit, but why own a performance car if you dont plan to spend money on it?..

one word - daily

[woggin]

ill put some pics up, i know its dodgy, but not as dodgy as running the pads that it had in there, because of the FR being seized it was constantly wearing, so there is only like 2mm of pad left, this way at least i have some new pads and pads that have some decent meat left on them.

I dont think the rims i have come in the offset i want!

Dale- yea i know the system will flex, which is why i wanted to run a really small spacer (2mm or so)

[woggin]

running them the way they are now (good and bad pads) WAS MY ONLY OPTION i was on a hoist at a shop, they needed it, i needed the car, i had no other option!!!

at least this way the brakes are better than before!!

a few of the images are quite large (2.5mb) they are large detailed fotos!

here are the pics
http://i34.tinypic.com/vcyjxy.jpg
circled is the 'hump' which i was thinking of grinding down, the wall is quite thick so i doubt there would be any issues with integrity.

2nd pic shows the gap ON THE VEHICLE AS IT IS NOW!! shows clearance, which is about 3mm or so!
http://i34.tinypic.com/2my9mhw.jpg

3rd pic shows the gap between the CALIPER and the RIM AS IT IS NOW, as you can see it is roughly 3mm...wen the new pad is on the outside, it causes the caliper to be pushed out, against the rim, which doesnt work as the wheel doesnt move and would just grind, on that hump shown in first pic (which is why i think grinding it off and running uber small (1-2mm) spacer would work(that way there would be a 3mm or so gap, which allows for flex)
http://i37.tinypic.com/5eva5l.jpg


4th pic is just a shot of the entire brake set-up/rim on the car AS IT SITS NOW!
http://i34.tinypic.com/s4a1aw.jpg

thanxs all
wog

[Dale]

Personally I wouldn't grind that part of the caliper, even though there's a fair bit of meat there it looks to be a structural area... plus it really doesn't look like grinding it will give enough extra clearance to make it worth the risk

[woggin]

i can do it on one of my spare calipers and chuck it on and see if it clears, which is wat i would do before i actually did it on the calipers on the car

[takai]

Just get new wheels and do it properly.

Those ones are horrible.

[Mr.Phreak]

+1 for not grinding

You'd want new pads in both sides before you start looking at clearances anyway

[andrew_mx83]

i would also vote for getting wheels that actually fit the car instead of bodging up the breaks just so u can have big wheels.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Dude, new wheels. I had a similar problem, my 4-pot brakes *just* rubbed on the 17" rims I had on originally. So, I waited until I got wheels that suited my application then fitted them. Just get some rims that are right for what you need.

[Bananaman]

lol @ the idea of selling car because wheels don't fit

buy new wheels that do fit. Sell old wheels.

[Grega]

please don't grind your calipers.
they are the main reason why your car stops
if they fail, you die. simple

as has been suggested - please get some other wheels. i know its frustrating and wanting to sell the car, just get some new wheels mate.