How to replace a steering rack end (MA61)

[Brett]

Howdy,

Just thought I'd do a write up of my experience of replacing a rack end on my MA61. I'm currently doing a whole pile of stuff in an effort to make the car pass roadworthy, and this was one of the many things that came back on the list of stuff to fix!

First task was to get the tie-rod off. Since I already had the LCAs out to get some new balljoints pressed in, I didn't have to separate it from the steering knuckle. It's worth counting the amount of rotations it takes to remove it so your alignment isn't too far out when you put it back together.





Next was to remove the bellows boot which is meant to have a steel zip tie holding it on. Mine didn't, but if yours is still on there (which it should be), it can't be re-used, so just snap it off with a hammer/screwdriver.



Once that's off, just pull on it and slide it off the rack end.



Things start to get a little difficult here if you don't have an SST. To undo the old rack end I had to grind the ends of an old shifter so it would fit between the shim. Before doing this I went shopping for a spanner which would fit, but all the spanners I found had really beefy ends on them and would've needed grinding to fit anyway. If you can find a narrow ended one which will fit, the size you need is 30mm.



My old rack end was bent pretty bad and wobbled a bit, not that I'd noticed before the roadworthy inspection :/



Now it was just a matter of putting the new one on and tightening it up.







Slide on the bellows boot, put on a new steel zip tie (can get them from Repco), bolt everything back together and you're ready for an alignment

[CELICASUPRA7M]

you have an MA61? post pics asap!

[Brett]

See here - http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...47#post1275847

[Chrisso]

You should use a spanner to stop the steering rack from taking the twisting strain of the rack end being loosened and tightened. At least, that's what the workshop manual recommends and how I've always done it.

For people that don't have their LCAs out, there is no need to go that far. By loosening the clamping bolt on the tie rod you can undo the rack end and replace it.

As Brett pointed out, take a note of the spacing on the rack end/tie rod for a better chance of getting decent alignment at the end.

[petergoudie]

If you need to undo the pinion bearing cap (that large internal hex plug) in the photo, a M16 bolt or nut fits. I used one of those extra long nuts from Bunnings that is used to join two lengths of threaded rod together.

Also, to undo the large rack end nut to remove the rack from the housing an extra large diameter 8-sided allen key (aka SST) is needed. I found a cast iron plumbing union from Bunnings fits perfectly.

[Dale]

Good write up, same basic theory applies to changing rack ends on just about any toyota

Not sure if you did it or not but the locking tabs should be bent down onto the rack end when you're done, then the rack ends can't wind themselves out should they ever come loose

[Brett]

No I didn't Dale! Lucky I haven't put it all back together yet, I'll get onto that later today. Thanks for the heads up