While I am not sure about the length differences, you may find that some flywheels are thinner where they mount to the engine. I know OS Giken recommend cutting down the flywheel bolts to suit.
hey guys just wanted to know if the 4ag arp flywheel bolts are longer then the factory 1jz flywheel bolts??? i had them on my last single plate npc clutch and worked fine but since going to a twin plate it doesnt seem to fit? ive tightened it up to where i thought was right and all it does is jam up the engine??? guessing the bolt is to long and locks the engine tight. (engine is sitting out of the car)
While I am not sure about the length differences, you may find that some flywheels are thinner where they mount to the engine. I know OS Giken recommend cutting down the flywheel bolts to suit.
Yeah perhaps best to cut down with a method whereby the bolts dont get too hot as im guessing they are heat treated.
perhaps hack saw rather than grinder.
While we are on the subject I just torqued up my set same bolts [stock flywheel] but needed to remove flywheel as p.plate bolt spacing requires redrill [didnt match]
Can I torque these bolts twice or are they single use only?
so cutting it down should be fine??? i didnt think i would be able to do that??? petespipes if they are arp then you should be fine but ive heard the factory ones can only be used once?
Yep they fitted great on my 1j
Defiantly don't cut them, they're most probably precisely heat treated. They are longer but they still fit without touching the block
The ARP ones can be re- torqued, standard ones are meant to be replaced
remember to use a medium strength threadlocker, the holes are straight through so oil can leak through the bolts if you don't
In my opinion [ring your local clutch shop for back up] there is no risk of losing strength from a bolt by making it shorter provided
A-dont heat it up
B-have enough bolt length to use all the available thread in the crank
eg measure crank thread depth and thickness of flywheel,this gives you bolt length required.place a correct size nut on bolt before you cut it down,clean up thread with a file or wire wheel on a bench grinder before removing nut by hand to check thread is fully clean and burr free.
On a semi-related note, do ARP sell any bolts to suit 1J PP? Already have 4ag fly bolts for the fly itself
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
well i think it does seem to be thinner in the middle of the flywheel compared to my last singleplate. so has anyone cut one down and been fine??? just kinda scared to have a flywheel come flying of at 7000+rpm lol.
No disrespect but if you are not sure about the process of shortening a bolt please believe that a great many armchair experts on the net who hav no actual experience will happily tap away at their keyboard offering all types of advice when its most likely that at home thir family would not allow them to put a spark plug in the mower as they would most likely cross thread it.
Phone your local clutch shop or drop in,explain honestly that you know zero about shortening bolts etc and request advice.
You are 100% right to be cautious.Best of luck with it!
Most after market flywheels have a thinner center section.
Cutting down the bolts is quite common.
I had to do the same when I went to a twinplate clutch. I cut down the stock OEM bolts, have had them in the car since 2006, taken them out around 8-10 times and re-used them with no issues.
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well i got them down without any heat in them and looks good so ill fit them up and hope like f@#k they hold. cant see why not with abit of loctite.
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