Ignition switch wiring carby to efi

[3sfe]

I'm putting a 22re(rt142) into a 85 hiace which has a 3y in it, i've come across a little problem the ignition switch on the hiace has 5 wires IG1,AM1,ST1,ACC,ST3 but on the corona it has 7 first 4 are the same then theres ST2,AM2,IG2 the ST2 is not connected to the main loom, from what i can tell the extra wires are efi related. So how have people gone about fixing this?
Another switch or button like V8 supercar style?

[Hen]

From what I have seen, IG1 and IG2, AM1 and AM2, ST1 and ST2 all have the same signal on them, they just run different things. Eg (off the top of my head) ST1 will control the starter motor and ST2 will be the start signal to the ECU.

So if you just run both of them off ST1 (using relays where needed of course) then there shouldn't be a problem.

I can double check this over the weekend when I can look at my 22RE wiring diagram. Let me know if you don't have a diagram already too.

Hen

[3sfe]

Sounds good, when you say relays do you mean ones used in the 22re loom or do i have to add them?
Na I don't have a diagram of the corona 22re only a US 22re out of an unknown vehicle which looks a bit different.

[Hen]

Use the factory relay setup if you can. Or you could just set it up so each of the signals IG, AM and ACC switches its own relay and then run power to everything that needs it from these relays.

I think the 22RE wiring diagram I have is ex. RA65, however it should do for RT142. I worked out the wiring of a 4YE from it and it all seemed pretty similar.

Hen

[Mos]

Hi,
Think of the corona ignition switch like two separate switches.
AM1 and AM2 are power supplies from both alternator and battery.
IG1 and IG2 are the switched powers respectively.
ST1 and ST2 are the starter signals respectively. (Mostly covered)
The two circuits are separate and they have separate fuses in the various fuseboxes.

From memory the only application of two starter signals that I have seen was for a points-activated ignition coil to bypass the coil resistor during cranking.

ST1 on most cars runs both the starter and the signals to the engine ECU (and any other ECUs that needs it, eg. digital dashs). On other cars they'll run that off ST2 and leave ST1 unconnected.

On older cars ST* runs the starter motor solenoid directly - on newer they use a relay.
If you run the ST1 signal to a relay to activate the starter solenoid you will be doing yourself a favour in the long run. Make sure the power for the starter relay (adequately fused) comes off the battery.

The IG1 and IG2 are switched ignition power supplies.
In general IG1 supplies the accessories, like wipers, blinkers, gauge, etc

IG2 supplies switching signal to relays such as the efi relay, ecu IGSW pin, etc. and most commonly directly supplies the injectors, the ignitor(s) and coil(s) - ie dirty power supply. (On some newer cars IG2 is supplied through a relay rather than directly through the ignition switch).

You could use your existing IG1 to switch on an added relay to run the injectors and coil, and to switch on the EFI relay (either added or corona setup).

HTHAMS.
Mos.

[bansheebuzz]

the number of terminals is irelivant. As long as you have an ignition supply that stays energized under crank(which you will have), then there will be no problem with wiring it up