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Thread: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

  1. #1
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Sep 2010
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    Victoria
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    Default Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    Just wanting to know how reliable the 2L-TE is? I'm looking at an '88 LN65 with a '97 2L-TE transplant, it seems to me these engines are a little uncommon in this state (EFI) and just wanna know before I buy?

    Cheers guys
    ¿qué?

    LN56 - Bullbar, UHF...Thats all so far!
    RN85 - Bullbar, UHF, Clearance lights, Mudflaps, Stickers...Dead

  2. #2
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota
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    Qld
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    They're a fairly simple setup - the ECU controls the fuel pump not the individual injectors. This style of ECU-controlled diesel had been produced by toyota since 1989 and they;re a fairly robust setup. Not as fuel efficient as a common-rail engine (e.g. 1KD) but still a solid performer.

    It will help if intercooled and change the oil regularly (e.g. do not wait until the oil is an awful black sludge)
    ------------------------------
    ST185 road barge / MZ11 forest barge / RA65 garage barge

  3. #3
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    NSW
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    Surf engine..... dont do it, just different enough from local stuff to be a PITA,

    they dont have a good reputation for reliability.

  4. #4
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Narellan, New South Wales
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    ive heard the turbos on them dont hold up long enough, and require to be rebuilt...

  5. #5
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    they r fkt motors
    head gasket problems
    how many surfs do u see with std 2lte motors
    none cause they are shit motors

  6. #6
    Forum Contributor Domestic Engineer
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    Dec 2005
    Location
    Victoria
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    I've seen plenty of turboed 2L’s (not many electronic ones, mainly the earlier mechanical ones) with head problems, bottom end issues and blown turbos. However, the head problems I've seen are usually after blowing 2 turbos by the owner screwing the boost up, and playing with fuel pumps with no real idea on what they are doing resulting in turbos running way out of eficiency, and both the intake and exhaust gas temps being sky high. From my experience it’s hardly a fault of the engine.
    Also, a lot of the blown motors around aren't factory 2LT's. The early 2L NA motors ran a different crankshaft journal and bearing setup than the later model 2L, 2LT and 3L 2.8 engines. The smaller cranks are much more prone to bottom end issues when stressed, especially when the oil is not religiously changed at 5000k's or better. Being the old indirect injection engine they are, they tend to soot the oil quite badly, and if only driven in the city and not made to work, like any diesel, sludging and coking can be a real issue.

    When the engine is used with a manual and driven like a diesel (sounds obvious), it’s not a bad thing. From the tiny amount of boost they run, they tend to go a bit better than an NA 2.8L, but of course throw an intercooler on them, and get it tuned properly, and they do ok for what they are. I wouldn't try and squeeze too much out of the factory turbo as is though. In auto form however, they are a slug. The auto doesn't have enough cogs, and the engine usually ends up trying to rev and drive like a petrol engine = shit times all round. Slow, forever in the wrong gear, and shit fuel economy to boot.

    Is it currently running in the car, or is it an unfinished project? If the EFI is a hassle one way or another, you can always ditch it and go back to the earlier manual type pump of a 2LT, or even a 3L can bolt up and be made to work from memory. The interchangeability between different L series engines is pretty bloody good.

  7. #7
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    WA
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    282

    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    Now let me see... My wifes Surf has a 2L-TE engine in it. The boost is wound up to 12psi and it not only is an auto Surf but is goes like an energiser battery. It just keeps going and going and going and never misses a beat. However on cold start it does miss and fart and carry on plus blow enouugh smoke to save the Bismark which is easy enough to fix with a different oil seal in the front of the injector pump. She just has to work out how to stop nagging me and then some of what she wants done might happen. But her whole car cost $0 and its 2L-TE cost $50 so I don't care. Turbo on these is a CT20
    His. 2005 GRJ120 Prado VX
    Hers. 1995 KZN130 Surf (soon to be replaced by a Rav4)
    1981 LN40 Hilux Trayback ute. Now an RN40 with Surf interior
    1992 Factory Widebody 2door Surf 1UZ-FE V8 Auto, now for sale

  8. #8
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Sep 2010
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    Victoria
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    Default Re: Toyta Diesel Engine Knowledge required!!!

    Didn't end up buying the vehicle. The motor sounded very healthy and mechanically it was a great car. But the massive rust hole in the rear wall and bubbles on A and B pillars made me think it wasnt such a great deal. Oh and the vehicle was registered in NSW previously and me living in Victoria wasn't 100% if I'd have to have an engineers certificate for the updated engine. There was no certificate available and I am aware of issues in the past with transferring vehicles interstate and the roadworthiness of modified vehicles :/
    I offered the bloke $3200 from his listing of $4200, and he said no, but then rang me back half an hour after I left and accepted my offer. By then I had made up my mind.
    ¿qué?

    LN56 - Bullbar, UHF...Thats all so far!
    RN85 - Bullbar, UHF, Clearance lights, Mudflaps, Stickers...Dead

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