Trouble understanding Toyota Bolt Dimensions

[trd_st184]

Hey all,
I'm looking at sourcing out some replacement bolts for when I do my manual conversion and I need to source out a replacement for this part number at a bolt shop:
90105-10216

On Toyodiy that part number is known as M10-1.25PX34-34

With my limited bolt experience I know that its a M10 thread with a 1.25mm pitch. Does that also mean that it would be 34mm long?

I wanted to get bolts that had the same flanged head as the toyota bolts.
I also want to make sure when I go into a bolt shop that I get the right strength. I am not able to find out the strength requirements from Toyota based on that part number.

[RA35GT]

Mate, it's usually difficult getting the same size flange/head on Toyota bolts as a lot of them are made to JIC (or something, japanese) standards which differ from ours. (AS usually specifies a bigger head for the thread diameter).

Toyota bolts are usually marked with a number to specify which grade it is (and they have torque tables which specify the torque to use) not sure if there are any cross reference tables for material specs however.

If that bolt is in a spot with limited access I would suggest getting them from toyota or raiding a wrecking yard/wreck.

[trd_st184]

Thanks for the heads up. I wonder what my chances of finding a correctly suited bolt from the wreckers. I am sure there are high tension bolts with the same grade on other models around, just a matter of finding them. I'm pretty sure the bolts on the auto transfer case at the moment would work, but its always a bit of a risk. They are very difficult to get to while its on the car (awd 3sgte transfer case on a East-West orientation).

[RA35GT]

Yeah man, would be a fair bet same bolts are used in lots of models in different locations.

Have you checked toyodiy to see if the auto transfer case and the manual transfer dont use the same bolts anyway?

[trd_st184]

Thanks mate,
According to ToyoDIY there is 4 bolts i'm missing (which are subsequently on the auto but I needed those to replace some others that i'm missing).

They are however available on a AE92 Corolla which is what holds the power steering pump cast bracket in place to the block.

The only issue is that they are very difficult to remove at a wrecker since if I remember correctly the pump is behind the motor on a fwd.
Part number is known as 36119C on my picture below (on right hand side bracket)

[HAVABEER]

easiest solution would be go buy grade 8.8 high tensile M10 bolt.

get one 40 or 50mm long. do it up, if it bottoms out early you can either cut it down to size or go buy the right size, your probably only looking at something like a $1 a bolt from an actual fasteners shop. also if your worried about the flanged part of it, put the correct sized washer on the bolt

Metric Grades Steel Bolts

[greg]

I have found it easier and cheaper in the long run to buy genuine . they are usually available abeit sometimes difficult to locate.

[oldcorollas]

genuine bolts are nto expensive

[trd_st184]

Thanks for the details. I really wanted genuine bolts but it was a 14 day wait and I only realised they were different this week. I have my gearbox planned for this weekend.

[dnegative]

Aftermarket bolts are shit compared to what OEM's use, strength wise they are fine but you always have to piss around with washers and shit
Can never get the nice flanged heads or pressed washers on them, these days if I dont have a Toyota bolt I'll pinch the equally good Swedish (Bulten) spec bolts from work.

[Sam_Q]

You could use cap head bolts, as in the barrel shape with an allen key insert. Their cheap and you could always fit a genuine bolt later

[big_zop]

I found this in one of the manuals I have collected over the years that might be some help in determing what you have before removing yours.

[trd_st184]

I found this in one of the manuals I have collected over the years that might be some help in determing what you have before removing yours.

Oh thats awesome thanks so much. Seems like one of the more "crucial" bolts I was after is only rated to a 6t, and its 10MM diameter and 30MM long. I'll be able to find those bolts at the wreckers no problems.

[greg]

I hate to mention this again but go buy new genuine bolts!! you never know what old bolts have been subjected to such as heating and cooling and over tensioning .by the time you find one in a wreckers your time will have cost you far more than the difference in cost.and if it fails you spend far more time and money removing and replacing them.been there done that! do each step correctly even if it takes a little longer you wont regret it in the long run and you will have complete confidence in the finished article.
Cheers Greg.

[TERRA Operative]

I always just get genuine bolts. They don't cost much more than aftermarket and they are just 'right'.