At a guess, some sort of check point you would screw a gauge into.
Never seen a fitting like that though.
What is this?
What does it do?
Sits under the pump on the high pressure line, Has an "O" ring around the top ,a small moveable pin down the centre hole.Is it to plug some sort of diagnostic tool into?
Or is it some sort of pressure adjust point.(it has what looks like a lock nut under the "o" ring.
the lexus had electric boost on steering, I've used the pump and hose on a conventional power steering rack (no electric's), effort to turn the wheel is harder than usual for power steer, but good feel at speed.
Could do with a bit lighter, as most of my K's are around the inner city.
3UZ Porsche 928S
30 year old supermodel, great ass, crazy eyes, erratic mood swings and more grunt than a hippo with haemorrhoids
At a guess, some sort of check point you would screw a gauge into.
Never seen a fitting like that though.
I once transplanted USDM LS430 engine but can't recall such a fitting. One thing that comes to mind though...maybe that fitting is used for bleeding the p/s , similar to coolant bleeding point found near heater outlets located on the back of the engine.
I can also recall that LS430 repair manual had a reference to some solenoid which is used to control pressure in p/s system
Last edited by George; 23-12-2013 at 09:45 PM.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Hi, George, if you don't know what it is ,I'm in big trouble!
I don't think it is a bleed, the cup in the top is the wrong shape, and I think there would be some residue of fluid around the pin inside. Pin can be pushed down with a finger, pops back up when car starts.
Also it is below the resevoir and the fluid would naturally bleed to the resevoir if this thing was not there.(gravity would bleed it even with this thing in place.
After running for a bit, fluid in the resevoir warms up, so it is not completely cutting off the flow.
When you transplanted the USDM LS430, did you use the p/s pump?
Did you use it with an electric assist rack? or non electric rack?
how did the rack perform?
I have quite heavy steering, feels good over 50KPH, probably too heavy for slow city driving.(my wife could not drive it.YEEEHA!)
If nobody can identify it, I might try adjusting it, not even sure if it is adjustable, I am sure it is restricting the flow, if not adjustable, might be easier to just remove it.
The Porsche power rack is in good operating condition, no leaks
3UZ Porsche 928S
30 year old supermodel, great ass, crazy eyes, erratic mood swings and more grunt than a hippo with haemorrhoids
Its one of these...
And I think the part that was connected there is one of these...
Only the bottom half of the valve got left in the fitting when it was dismantled.
Cheers... jondee86
Last edited by jondee86; 26-12-2013 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Slow day... added stuff :)
its idle up valve, increases revs while your turning. I got rid of mine.
splatt
used it with a steering box, w/o idle up valve. Steering was a tad tighter than with the original pump intended for the box, but overall quite acceptable
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Thanks Jondee, Gino and George.that's the little mofo in the picture, minus the cap/connector.
What's the best way (read cheap) to bypass it? Get it cut out of the hose? or remove the top part and screw in a shorter blanking bolt?
Will removing it increase flow, lighten up the rack a bit?
Russ
3UZ Porsche 928S
30 year old supermodel, great ass, crazy eyes, erratic mood swings and more grunt than a hippo with haemorrhoids
I don't know, but I would guess that the pin is part of the valve. So I would suggest that you take out the butt end of the valve and see if there is anything left down inside the fitting. If there is no obstruction to flow, just find a plug with the correct thread and block the open end.
Being how it appears to be a simple idle-up air valve that is actuated by line pressure, leaving it out should have zero effect on the hydraulic circuit. You might find that you have to raise your idle speed a little to avoid dragging the idle low when you hit full lock.
Cheers... jondee86
Last edited by jondee86; 27-12-2013 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Santa jet lag...
Flow wise, removing the idle up valve won't make any difference, so screwing appropriate bolt seems to be the best bang for the buck for you )
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
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