2JZ-GTE MX83 Cressida Build

[Defiance]

Afternoon

Been a reader on the Forum for a while before i started this conversion to try and get as much information as possible. I am more than open to constructive criticism or advice or changes people may have to help! This will be a bit of a slow build due to financial strains and time strains. I collected the halfcut on the 2nd February and its now the 30th..

There is so many variations to the info you will find on this so may as well collaborate what i have learnt!

There's a lot of "Probably fit" and "Maybe do this" out there from a lot of helpful people, However doing this conversion has shown a lot of definitive's that may save someone else out there the trouble in the future!

Limited to 10 Images per Post so will split this up

Parts List:

Engine Crane
Assorted set of Tools (Obviously)
Plenty of Patience
Plenty of hand degreaser
Speaking of Degreaser - Plenty of Degreaser

I used a JZS161 Aristo Halfcut
Golebys Engine mounts suit S2- http://goo.gl/wGMHf1
Standard Timing Belt, Seals and gaskets
Non Hydro Waterpump Conversion - http://goo.gl/RCZwH3
Alloy 3Core Radiator (Ebay Special)
Power Steering Oil Cooler ($40 ebay Special)
2JZGE N/A Clutch Hub and Fan (GTE or 7M WILL NOT WORK)

You Will need to change:
Major Items:
Wiring (This is a Major, Budget for this)
Tailshaft (No the factory one WILL NOT WORK)
Water Pump from Hydro to Clutch Fan (Or go to thermos if you want)

Minor Items:
Fuel Pump To a Wahlbro 255 (Or similar as factory will not have enough flow)
Lots of Bolts to be Shortened or swapped

Starting the Build! First off Tip - Keep Everything.

Get Yourself a rust free Cressida!



Remove the blown and busted 7m



Obtain yourself a Halfcut!


Get said halfcut home... (easier said than done)


Start the Horrible Process of stripping down the Half cut...
Because i was not using the radiator or any of the aristo bits at the front - Get the grinder out



Punch yourself in the Sausage Flap repeatedly due to small handed Japanese designers

Eventually you will end up with a Motor on the ground like so!



From here the fun begins... Getting a motor out is easy...

Now its best to do all the fun stuff like your Waterpump conversion, Timing Belt, Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, Ect ect now while you have 360 Degree access.

Now Remove the original engine mounts - Which are giant wangs of things to get off. Turbo side is easy, get in there with extensions and its no problems at all!

[Defiance]

Its the other side... The Intake side thats a Barrel of fun!
You will need to remove the heat exchanger due to bolts getting in the way behind it.


This is done by removing the big brass bolt looking thang.



Now with everything, You will need to continually customise things. The custom engine mounts are no exception.


Get the Grinder out again


You will need to remove the motor a fair few times to get it right so leave the gear box off to start would be a suggestion


The rear turbos do fit - However you will NEED heat shields to make sure everything does not implode


Cooling is an issue.

The factory aristo thermo fans do not fit. They foul on the aircon compressor. so After you go to all the effort of getting them fitted to match up to the radiator you will find that they are too big. Damn.

[Defiance]

The Motor and Box are now installed and bolted down - Time to start Re-assembling the motors wiring and hoses and tubing

You will need:
JZS161 or 147 Throttle Cable as the MX83 is way to short.
JZS161 Power Steering reservoir bracket to be bent and Modified to fit body
Assorted Lengths of power Steering hose
Sharp Knife to cut the 2JZGE Clutch fan as it fouls on the upper hose

Conveniently the radiator hoses can be cut and modified to fit the 2JZ heater hose outlets and the body





Now for the Tail Shaft

You will need this adaptor from Drift motion - http://goo.gl/pXb8Ku

Because the Aristo boxes have the 3 prong outlets normally with a rubber "Donut"

The tailshaft from the Cressida has a slip joint style which will be cut and converted to a 1350 4 bolt shaft.

[Defiance]

And this one.

[madmont]

You do not appear to have a steering wheel which would have the cruise control switch and the up/down change buttons for the transmission. If you want to use the power/snow switch you will need the MPX ecu from behind the left hand kick panel. On top of the inlet manifold towards the back is a plug with a hex head where you can put a banjo for brake servo vacuum. Speedo? You should be able to put the Cressida temperature sender into the water outlet housing on the 2JZ.

[Defiance]

I can still use the Standard steering wheel though correct? Will the box still change fine like it should?

I will be using the factory gear selector, can i not wire in thi "Pwr" button?

I will need a one way valve for the brake booster correct? Which way does it go?

Boost to booster or away from Booster?

The speedo on my box is electronic correct? Or is the dang thing mechanical

Saweet, I will wire in the temp sender to that, two wires correct?

[madmont]

You can use the standard steering wheel
Power/snow switch is wired to the MPX ecu
One way valve is on the booster
Do not know what your speedo is . JZS161 speedo is electronic and not driven off the transmission
Temp sender for the instruments has 1 wire

[Shakotan_Aaron]

There should already be a one way valve on the brake booster line. Suck and blow on it to check.

That rear turbo clearance looks too tight. With non vvti you have to use a smaller booster. Have you allowed for engine movement? I'm using a gx81 booster which fits up like stock but has a smaller diameter. So clears easily.

I used falcon thermo fans. Just had enough clearance but is still tight.

I also used the original jzs147 coolant temp sender for the dash without any issues. They are pretty generic.

[wilbo666]

I also used the original jzs147 coolant temp sender for the dash without any issues. They are pretty generic.

JZS161 doesn't have a dedicated sensor for the dash like JZS147!

JZS161 uses one sensor for the engine ECU, and then sends the engine coolant temp to the JZS161 dash over the Multiplex network! (Serial data).

Madmont's suggestion of fitting the original Cressida temp sensor in addition is probably the easiest way to solve the problem!

Wilbo

[Shakotan_Aaron]

Oh yes, very fair call. Didn't know these would use such wizardry

[dnegative]

I've got a fancy custom made brake booster that's a bit smaller to clear the turbos better;
I dont need it, if you want it on the cheap PM me.

[Defiance]

Wilbo your wiring loom Info is going to huge usage!!!

On holidays at moment so currently no progress

However while the Missus is sleeping been finding parts!

Where did previous people run intercooler piping?

Dnegative just added you mate, that would be mint

[dnegative]

Send us a PM when your back, I've got to pull it out and change it for a stock one yet.

[Defiance]

Not a whole lot has happened lately - Work... Urgh.

SORRY FOR THE HUGE AMOUNT OF PHOTOS!




Been tinkering with the Wiring for a fair While - The only thing that will keep you sane is the fact other people have already mapped out MOST wires!

Between
- Wilbo666's Links http://goo.gl/8OP2GM
- Toymods Links http://goo.gl/k4Btpc


Its been do-Able even with a normal amount of Electrical knowledge - Important to know. I have never done any mechanical study. Its just general knowledge really, Input means a signal goes in, Output means signal comes out! Simple!



Its literally an abomination until its on the roads going then i will clean it up properly and mount it in the glove box.
I have left all the wires labeled just in case something isnt working as it should - I will be able to follow back then.


Other than working on Wiring - Intercooler mounted. Good size for the car actually, i can come straight in underneath the sills with the pipiing



Simply got some Aluminium Stripping from Bunnings and thrown in the vice - Bent to shape - Thats the Powersteering cooler mounted right besides it, black with fins..



Another issue you will come across - infact anyone whom has a Auto Car in which the cooler is in the radiator. The fittings suck. If you sneeze on them they will break.
These are TERRIBLE. Unbelievably crap material, However the threads on the radiator are a standard BSP Thread which is awesome as any airline fittings will work. You can get these from anywhere that does Hydraulic/Pneumatic gear



Pirtek sells Hydraulic lines in which you can just mix and match to make work - MAKE SURE YOU THREAD TAPE THEM HOWEVER. Unless you are a fan of leaks... Not for me.



Something that i have found to save an absolute heap of cash is to buy Hoseclamps, Banjo Crush Washers and intercooler Clamps from China

They are all "314 Stainless" haha But seriously, $5 for 50 clamps and $2 for 40 Crush washers You. Can. Not. Lose. (However buy them 3 - 4 weeks before you need them!)



Supercheap auto clamps are about $3-5 EACH.
Crush Washers @Pirtek $1-1.50 EACH.


I used a JZS161 as the Halfcut - Meaning the Alternator is on the wrong side. You need to extend the Cressida Body loom Wires over - Extend the Thick cable as well back into the Fuse box


Simple - Cut and join the appropriate wires!

[Defiance]

During the yearly clean out of the shed - I had to move the car... That sucked. Its quite heavy to push... However looks so good without a bonnet



Because my car has the Aristo box on the back it has the 3 bolt tailshafts - Next week im measuring up for length and will get the tailshaft made, I ended up just buying a few tailshafts a guy had spare from a Supra and will cut and shut one of the ends and get Farrows Shafting (Tailshaft joint) To join them together - Allow about $300 for this...



Because i had a bit of ally left over, After finishing the engine bay side of things, i still had the Ignitor just hanging.... Kinda important, Again, Bend and make a few brackets



While your there, Throw a one way valve in the brake line to stop the booster seeing Boost pressure...



So in a few months time, After the car is running and im happy - Ill slowly buy a turbo to go on the end of this... It came up... Couldnt say no (Yes that is a screamer off the back)
This wont be on for a fairly long time yet...



I actually have a video of the car running!
https://youtu.be/Jai8MKXK7RQ

For the first time!

All this in a thread looks like its a 5 minute job but the wiring took about 12 hours. Do not do this if you have to pay someone.... Labour will kill the bill.

However if something goes wrong at least you will know how to fix it....