3t-gte information required

[merc-blue]

WELL
"The two sparks help create a larger flamefront ensuring less unburnt fuel in the exhaust as well as a higher thermodynamic efficiency. "
pretty much its meant to make the fuel burn faster and better but its not always the case, if you have a good ignition setup then there good but ifyou dont they seem to be tricky

i think there is more to look at, get both heads (well all 3 infact) and compart ports and valves between the 2TG, 2TGEU and 3TGTE heads i think your going to get more benfits from well flowing ports and good valves than twinspark or multispark

[sillycar chick]

Anyone already got these heads sussed out? Valve sizes?

There's a 3T-GTE head and a 2T-G head at my dads, but not a 2T-GEU, and the heads I have access to are under piles and piles of crap in the shed... not really, just really hard to get to atm, so if anyone has already sussed them out would be good to let me know.

[merc-blue]

i know the 2TG (early) is larger ports than the 2TGTE (late) heads im not sure aobut 3T but at a guess i would say similer to the late 2TG maybe bigger?

[gearb0x]

on a tight budget i belive the 2TG head is better as they have facing efi intake manifolds, and only 4 plugs meaning dizzy caps dont cost an arm and a leg, as well as converting to wasted spark is cheaper

not sure on combustion chamber, valve sizes etc. And any 3TGTE you buy now that hasnt been rebuild, will be more than likely due for one.

That said if you have a full 3TGTE, manifolds computer and all and dont want to go too crazy id just freshen it up and go for your life

[TurboRA28]

2TG head doesn't have provision for dizzy does it? They were in the block? Which means crank angle sensor time. If im correct about the above that is...

[gearb0x]

Yeah but you can remove the dummy dizzy shaft and plug (then give it to me cause i want for my 2TG ) and install a dizzy there.

from what i can tell the 3TGTE has a dummy shaft with a plug in the block, if these can be removed a 2t/3t dizzy should go straight in, as the head has clearance for it (you cant do it with a 3TG head)

I could be wrong, ive only worked on 2TG's but im pretty sure thats the case

[TA22 GT]

I've had a 3T GTE for a few now in various forms.
The stock ECU and trubo is good for about 10psi without intercooler and around 12psi with intercooler.

With a better turbo the stock internals are good for about 16psi. I've currently running 14psi on completely stock internals without any issues.

I had the stock ECU before changing to a Microtech. So far I haven't had any trouble with the microtech and am very happy with the set up. Its an LTX 8.

Before you think about a big HP 3T GTE, make sure your brakes and suspension is up to it. Theres no point going fast if you can't stop....

I have a fair bit of info on my site about the 3T GTE that might help, eg wiring diagrams etc.
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm

Cheers,
Simon

[3t-RA40]

I dont have a factory ECU, so unless I can get one I will have to go aftermarket. Any suggestions on which ones to use? Good value for $?

And I was thinking to go a bit bigger on the turbo after its up and going, and it will have a FMIC of somesort, so shouldnt get too hot.

So if I use aftermarket ECU and non-std turbo, what happens to my piston situation then? Can it still work without constant rebuilds?

What was that you mentioned, you need a factory ECU. Please refer to this
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3680
I used this factory ECU with different turbo at 13/14psi, front mount intercooler and standard internals for years. Good for about approx 160hp rear wheel.

[LeeRoy]

What is the max power that can be achieved from a 3t. I wanna keep mine but if it cant make some good power then im better off upgrading. What power does yellorolla make?

- LeeRoy

[RiceburnaGTV]

Hahaha your poor dad." So daaaad, you know how youve got that spare 3TGTE in the shed"hehe

Ok I will probably have all you need computer wise after the microtec goes in,so let me sort that out and we can go from there,I also have a spare CT20 turbo that has nearly 0 free play if yours is a little poo. I will scroll through old emails as I have come across quite a few people with spares for the 3tgte,one that comes to mind is Fadee,im pretty sure he's going forgies with his set up so you may wana PM him,im overdue for a visit to check out his car and pat his cool cat again so let me know if you want anything checked out,hahah oh yeah thats if its cool with Fadee

Nath

[sillycar chick]

Thanks for all your help guys... been doing some thinking, and dont know what I am doing yet. I have two choices basically:

1. Get a 3T-GTE, rebuild it to stock form, put in the sillycar I have now
2. Get a 3T-GTE, rebuild it to NUTS form, put in the sillycar that I will soon be doing up

I dont really need the celica I have now as a daily, but I missed driving it those few months it was off the road, so the advantages of option 2 is that I have a celica on the road for most the time while doing up the other one. Hmmm im thinking this is starting to lean towards option 2...

I dont know, decisions decisions!!

[AE25]

im putting up some 3tgte info on a page.. hopefully one day everything you'll need to know
http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte.htm

anyone with toyota 3tgte workshop manual PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can i somehow attain a copy.. i'll happily host it online! i've been to toyota and the only one they have in NZ is at head office and in japanese.. they've translated 5 pages so far but arent being very helpfull to let me get hold of the rest.

those that dont know me, im running a close to stock 3tgte in a ke70 sr coupe. two years ago did a dyno run with 10psi, non intercooled, running 10.1:1 a/f ratio (fricken rich) and 1.7/8" exhuast and put out 160rwhp. (factory efi and turbo) since then have installed mandrel 2.5" exhaust and removed boost tap, intake moved to l/h side with pod filter. nothing special... thing is, boost starts out at 8psi and creeps to 13psi at 6500rpm non intercooled still running rich.. and its been like that for a year no probs. have done best 1/4 of 14.59@153km/h. i love it
i will upgrading a few things very soon tho.

[AE25]

ah also.. yes you can run a 2tgeu dizzy with 3tgte head only if you machine/grind the alloy away where the 3tgte dizzy comes out of the head.
interestingly you cant remove the 3tgt dummy dizzy shaft from the block without taking the 3tgt head off first?!!
yes you can run 2tgeu head and swap to 2tgeu dizzy with 3tgte oil pump, but it wont have a spark retard diaphragm on the dizzy like the 3tgte have. could be a cause for detonation. i dont like the idea of relying on a 23yr old diaphragm for spark control anyways.. aftermarket ignition a good idea

[NAJJE]

Hey,

I currently have a 3T-GTE that has been fully rebuilt with forgies etc and now in the process of sorting out my ignition aswell.

Before I got a turbo upgrade, I want to ensure my fuel/ignition is up to scratch cos I dont want to cause any damage after spending so much on the engine...

I have pulled out the dizzy and want to install a CAS setup ready for a Microtech computer. There are several options in doing this, but what comes to mind is to buy an aftermarket Crank trigger disk and mount to the harmonic balancer with appropriate resulting in removing the dizzy.

My trouble is that while speaking to microtech they recommended Bocsh motronic setup of a BMW which I find very difficult to beleive would be an appropriate solution. Can people out their please further disuss what was used in their ignition setup with the 3T-GTE and whats involved in doing this. I think this will benefit a lot of people out their wanting to get rid of the dizzy setup.


Rob

[TheToyman75]

Talk about a million and one questions ! ... J/K

Ok I'm gunna jump around alittle so I hope it all makes sence. If your looking at a tight budget option rebuilding a broken 3T-GTE is not the best idea. They are not forgiving and poorly built/tuned/maintained etc 3T-GTE's break.


First of all the Forgies verses cast pistons dilema.

BUY FORGIES !!! Seriously, do the math and what you will save is just not worthwhile useing cast pistons. How much are the cast pistons ? $450 or so ?? Add a set of chrome rings $150 - $200. Compared to a set of forgies with rings - Just under $1000. So your saving Maybe $350 and in return your getting a set of less forgiving pistons. So when you get the bug for more power (And you will get it) or you have a moment with the engine (And melt bugger a piston) you now don't have to find an extra $350 you have to find just under $1000 for the forgies, a few hundred for a gasket set, the cost of a hone or rebore, new engine oils filters and fluids, preferably new bearings while its appart (you would be made not to) potentially a head service, possibly a crank grind and of course labour if you can't do it all yourself. So the $350 "saving" you made on the forgies just cost you a couple of grand rebuilding the bottom end you wouldn't have broken or needed to rebuild if you had done it right the first time ! So next time someone says they can't afford Forgies what they meant was they hadn't really thought about it Its a false economy.

I assume the Hybrid is still running so take the extra time and evaluate what you want and what your willing to spend to get it. (Then double the bill and tripple the time period for an accurate estimate)

Keep in mind that more power requires more support, Bigger injectors, better fuel pumps, bigger fuel lines, bigger intercoolers, more efficient radiators, better briething exhausts, stronger clutchs, stronger tailshafts etc etc etc. Its a viscious circle

If you decide your going to do it you have to options, the all in one go long term plan like I did (And hope you finish it beofre you retire) or the mose costly but enjoyable 1 step and a time development plan. Sure you do allot of things twice (or more) but you get to enjoy the car at ever stage of development. Build a Tough bottom end and fit the stock head turbo etc. the later you can do the fuel system, then the cooler, turbo etc. If you do it in the right order you can enjoy consistant power gains at each step with redoing it all because you built a compromise package at the start. If you commit to the build then I can help you plan a logical development progression.

Your ignition system is damn near a thread in itself, once you decide on a p[ath engine wise we can match an ignition to it. You need good spark to make good power.

Head comparrison, well I'm not gunne get into it BUT I will say the whole big port small port rubbish is not the case or worth considering. I have a 3T-GTE head in the RA28 and a heavily moddified 2TG head for the TA22. They both have there pro's and cons performance and $$$ wise. A good head is a good head and both can turn good number so personally any head other is fine but I would stick ot the factor EFI series heads. The 88220 has the small valves and the 88222 has less internal ribbing than the EFI heads from memory which is enough reason not to use them for a turbo application. (Altho you could of course)

Oh as for a 3T-GTE engine manual, Yes I have one. Its not in digital format so I cna;'t send it out. They are in japanese !!! Just use your 2TG manual and it will have you sorted for the most part anyway.

Engine management - This I'm not getting into but you do get what you pay for. If its an entry level ECU it will be more limited than a hi end (Autronic or Motec) ECU. Weather you need the extra abilities of the top end items is a matter for debate depending on your goals and how tollerant you are. The 3T-GTE is a primitive beast, a unit such as a moden Microtech or Altronic will be better than your factory ECU on a moddified engine.

I'll leave it there for now or by the time I reply the thread will have moved another half dozen posts anyway