IS300 x JZZ30 - 1jzgte TT in a Lexus

[t_bund]

Hi all,

Firstly, I'm aware this question has been asked a dozen times before, I've searched many forums surounding this and have compiled a lot of my infromation from these. However there appears to be a lot that are incomplete regarding the swap or use different parts. I've got a long winded version below, but essentially I'm wanting to drop a 1jz TT and auto A340 trans from a JZZ30 into an IS300 while creating a dual ecu set up (1jz ecu for running gear, IS300 ECU for everything else). Information out there (mostly from USA) differs with engine (JZZ30, JZS171, JZX100/110 - vvti and non-vvti - mostly all mated to W58 or R154 boxes) and although the concept is the same, there seems to be a few differences across the board. Would be great to hear any usefeul information/feedback from Australia, particualrly if anyone has tackled this project previously (or decided not too due to any big barriers!). I'd also be very interested in making a proper DIY build thread once I start to assist anyone else who's contemplating the idea.

Anyway, here's the full story of my current situation and future intentions **Warning, long story that may not be of interest to some**:

My wife’s friend has just replaced their IS300 with a new car and I’m in a position to get this cheap (it’s in really good nick). 2J-GE engine is a bit underpowered for my liking, but I’m aware that being a 2J, the mounts line up perfectly for a 1JZ-GTE. I’ve been doing a fair bit of research on the swap through various searches (most info is USA based) and the process seems straight forward enough.


Why?

So my more recent car history has been a MKV VW GTi, Nissan 200sx (s14), Honda Integra Type R (DC2R) and now a 2011 Renault Megane RS250. The GTI initiated my interest in cars and modifying and it ended up being a very quick and torquey car with great everyday driveability. Then an S14 that I bought 100% stock off an old fella and converted it from auto to manual before going down the route typical of 3” custom exhaust, FMIC, coilovers, wheels etc etc. This
made for a great intro into RWD performance. Fun car with good balance/chassis to learn more about RWD dynamics (drift/oversteer etc). I sold this after developing an interest in Integra Type Rs, never considered a Honda before but this car was an absolute riot to drive (8800rpm!). Raw feeling, very involving, very capable and sounded great. However the lack of luxury from both the S14 and Integra left me wanting to get something a bit more comfortable again for the daily commute while still having performance (I’ve taken all these cars to the track, and aim to continue to do so with future cars). The Renault is fantastic for a FWD car, excellent front diff leaves you having more than enough traction and it just covers ground so quickly, challenging cars that are in a way higher price bracket. The downside is that I can’t modify it (short of spending huge dollars on suspensions etc) as it’s so competent and I’m sorta left wanting to get into RWD again while having something different….Enter the IS300 1JZ. This project will sate my need of RWD, something a bit more unique, still have performance (won’t handle as good, but will have more power), and will also cater for the luxury/practical needs that the S14 never could. Benefit is that I’ll be staying auto (at least initially, manual conversion way more expensive and harder to source that Nissans) so the wife can drive it too if need be.


What? Rough list of items/prices

IS300 - $4.5k
JZZ30 Soarer - $2-3k
3” Stainless piping ?3m - $150
3” 100cel cat - $85
3” resonator - $70
3” ebay muffler - $100
3” vband - $30
2x 90deg 3” SS bends - $80
450x300x100mm ebay intercooler - $200
FMIC piping 2.75” & 2.25”- $100?
Silicone joiners - $150?
10x hose clamps - $25
Upgraded transmisson cooler - $100
Engine/trans fluids, filters seals (full service) - $500
I assume I’ll need a custom drive shaft? Doubt either the IS300 or the Soarer one will line up. $$$

Soarer will have:
Engine (and accessories)
Engine loom
ECU
A340 Trans
Fuel pump & return lines
Possible reusable hoses/piping?

Sell:
2JZGE and A650e- $?
Soarer rolling shell, full interior - $?


How?

So I’ll be starting with the IS300 as opposed to the IS200 . I have read that you MUST have an IS300 crossmember for it to work, however it seems some people havent had this issue? Anyway the added benefits of the IS300 are the mounts, the bigger brakes, bigger radiator, LSD etc so makes for a good starting base. As above, I enjoy working on cars which is something I don’t get to do as much anymore. Fortunately I’m in a position where I have friends with skills so while the engine swap itself seems easy enough, the more difficult components that may turn people off the project are also catered for. One of my friends is particularly handy with a welder and has done plenty of custom work for my previous cars. So things like a custom exhaust, intake and FMIC set up can be taken care of. I plan to buy a used JZZ30 Soarer for the 1JZ GTE (twin turbo), engine loom, ECU, A340 transmission plus any other little bits and pieces that may be useful (hoses, lines etc). The aim (and it looks as though its been done before, but a bit of a mission) is to use the IS body loom, the 1JZ engine loom and retain both the 1JZ and the IS ECUs. This will require us to splice the looms (don’t think they use the same plugs) and feed the ECUs the relative information so that the 1JZ ECU powers/drives the car and the IS ECU keeps the cluster, power windows etc etc all running. Should keep the car running like factory and negate the need for a standalone ECU and tuning.

I should add that my friends and I have previously also worked on their cars with bigger projects being an LS1 swapped 180sx (track only car) and RB25det swapped R32 now making 330rwkw on e85. With 90% of work being done by ourselves. This IS300 will also be my only car (will sell the Megane) in addition to my wife’s (boring, but reliable) Corolla.


Ok that was longer than I thought haha. I guess if you’ve actually managed to read this far, I’ve got a few questions for you guys.
- From a quick glance above, am I forgetting anything major?
- Were there any big challenges people have faced with this swap?
- Outcomes of the swap? I'm assuming a noticable performance gain in power and torque.

I'll also add (as I'm sure it might be raised) that I'm going for a 1jzgte TT non-vvti over a vvti or 2jzgte due to availability of Soarers and their cost. Obviously I want to mnismise costs here to have a comple running car without spending big dollars. I've also not chosen to go down the 2JZGE NA+T route for the same reasons of cost and facotry reliability. I'm not overly keen on boosting an NA setup due to concerns of reliability (I'm sure theres people out there that will have had zero dramas however) as well as the need for aftermarket tuning.

I'll likely be focussing remaining funds on wheel/tyres and coilovers initially, but the mods won't stop there (just give me time to save/get permission from the wife!)

If anyone has any questions for me also regarding previous cars etc, fire away

Cheers!

[t_bund]

No one had a go at this yet? All good. I’ll be sure to start a new build thread soon once I get everything sorted. Will be happy to give tips/advice (and hopefully not warnings!) along the way. Watch this space.


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[orestes]

My main concern I want you to look at is some reality. You might want to check whether you can do this at all from a JZZ30. To do it legally you will need a +99 model so 1999-2005.

Anything else and you will fall foul of the issue of putting an older engine into a newer car which leads to so much crap you would be better off to admit to yourself that you can't legally do it and have your car registered on the road as you will have to make it meet the emissions standards of the year model of your car which is a cluster-bomb of a situation you'd rather not deal with.

I would also plump for higher quality parts if you want your car to be reliable. A Yumcha intercooler will work until it doesn't and then you will cook your turbo/engine.

VVT-i vs. not, it really depends how much power that you want to make vs. not make and where you want to make it. Its a trade off for better overall torque vs the ability to develop more power. The non-VVT-i will produce less torque but its easier to make more power. The VVT-i engine will give you more torque at the expense of the ability to make as much power while adding more complexity.

Given how rev happy you have to be to drive that era of Toyotas in general I'm of the view that VVT-i was a good thing as it brings your usable power down lower in the rev range. Some people aren't as much of a fan of VVT-i as I am. There are other reasons though. The more complex your engine is, naturally the more complex and expensive your ECU will need to be. This lends to a non vvt-i engine.

[t_bund]

Very valid points! Thanks for your input. Yeh the reason I was going for non-vvti was due to price/availability. Not having been in vvti one but I was aware of peak torque at half the revs being much nicer for the daily. But then again I’m used to lag having previously owned an SR20det haha, so not overly bothered. I like the slight ease of tuning due the less complex non-vvti too, however horror stories of the ceramic twins does scare me a little (I’d attribute it to poor maintenance and insufficient supporting mods leading to excess heat, but who knows).

Thanks for raising the issue of engineering too, that might be the big factor in sourcing a JZX110 or JZS171....but I assume that means I’ll have to up the budget.


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[orestes]

Very valid points! Thanks for your input. Yeh the reason I was going for non-vvti was due to price/availability. Not having been in vvti one but I was aware of peak torque at half the revs being much nicer for the daily. But then again I’m used to lag having previously owned an SR20det haha, so not overly bothered. I like the slight ease of tuning due the less complex non-vvti too, however horror stories of the ceramic twins does scare me a little (I’d attribute it to poor maintenance and insufficient supporting mods leading to excess heat, but who knows).

Thanks for raising the issue of engineering too, that might be the big factor in sourcing a JZX110 or JZS171....but I assume that means I’ll have to up the budget.


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The stock ceramic turbos are junk really, and should be changed when they break. You can get a non-vvti engine but it must match the years your car was available. An Adaptronic will happily run a 1J all day long but there are other options. You can pull the engine from any car you like the years just have to match to do it legally.

[t_bund]

When you say changed, replaced with another pair (assuming cheapest option) or is there an BB set of twins that exist? Otherwise I assume you mean just opt for a bigger single with appropriate ECU and fueling ($$$).


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[orestes]

When you say changed, replaced with another pair (assuming cheapest option) or is there an BB set of twins that exist? Otherwise I assume you mean just opt for a bigger single with appropriate ECU and fueling ($$$).


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Yeah that, a bigger single with the appropriate fuel components and ECU.